Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently bought my first skyline and want to get more power out of it. It currently makes 220kw at the wheels, but i want more.

Im just after some info on turbo selection, im thinking of running either a GT3582R with a .63 rear or a GT3082 with a .82 rear. (Both with External gate)

If anyone has run either of these two setups or have some info about them, can you help me out please.

I would like to know the following:

At what revs you reach boost

Is there much lag

How much power you made

Thanks David

Edited by whistle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268383-which-turbo-gt3582r-or-gt3082r/
Share on other sites

You're going to have to upgrade the fuel system, you probably want aftermarket ECU as well, FMIC, or do you have these already?

Personally I'd go with neither and choose a TO4Z with .84 rear housing.

I have an Autronic e420c ECU, FMIC, Aftermarket coil packs, 3" exhaust, top mount turbo manifold, custom plenum. I had a T04Z before on my VL but i was told that it would be too laggy for the RB25.

Edited by whistle
I have an Autronic e420c ECU, FMIC, Aftermarket coil packs, 3" exhaust, top mount turbo manifold, custom plenum. I had a T04Z before on my VL but i was told that it would be too laggy for the RB25.

Go for a GT3076R(aka GT3037 or HKS GT3037) with 0.82 rear.. Will perform much better all thru rev range and much more enjoyable to drive than a GT3082R or GT3582R. The 3082R wouldnt make much more peak power and would be higher in rev range than the 3076R.

I have seen so many people got for the GT3082R and GT3582R and be unsatisfied because the power is made so late and unenjoyable on the street. Sure, they are fine when the come on boost hard but become cops to drive for daily driving.

Especially with stock internals, the GT3076R is the best turbo to go. It will be the most responsive out of the lot and best power band. Easily capable of 300kw atw on 18psi+

GT3082R... I have one on my RB25 and is not as laggy as people make out. I run an auto and make 260rwkw (15psi) but has gone as high as 290rwkw (20psi and smaller convertor, on ovaboost dyno here in WA which is very very low reading). So I'm sure it will make bulk power on a manual.

You can buy my turbo if you want :(

But honestly the 3082R I believe is a great turbo. Full boost well before 4000rpm, not sure where exactly, but holds strong through to 8200rpm :(

Edited by cactus

Long term - probably not.

No RB25 pushed that hard has lasted forever... but then its a fair hike on factory so its to be expected.

260rwkw would be about as far as i would personally go for ultimate long term life.

That figure also puts you into a smaller turbo range = more response, which overall for a street car is what you want

I have an Autronic e420c ECU, FMIC, Aftermarket coil packs, 3" exhaust, top mount turbo manifold, custom plenum. I had a T04Z before on my VL but i was told that it would be too laggy for the RB25.

Have you thought of running a smaller turbo eg. a GT28RS?

Stock internals best go for something nippier unless you plan to rebuild your engine with commitment and cash ready.

Putting in a fairly big turbo needs lotsa cash and research. Not just buying a GT35R and slap it into your motor. You need to consider fueling (fuel injectors and pump), oil pump (for me N1 oil pump is just crap. Go for a TOMEI if you can afford one or a JUN), Forged pistons and rods, race bearings, valvetrain (cams, valve springs, solid lifter conversion if possible) No use having such a big turbo on a RB25 and killing the spool at 7000-73000rpm.

There are much more to consider before commiting yourself for something bigger.

Have you thought of running a smaller turbo eg. a GT28RS?

Stock internals best go for something nippier unless you plan to rebuild your engine with commitment and cash ready.

Putting in a fairly big turbo needs lotsa cash and research. Not just buying a GT35R and slap it into your motor. You need to consider fueling (fuel injectors and pump), oil pump (for me N1 oil pump is just crap. Go for a TOMEI if you can afford one or a JUN), Forged pistons and rods, race bearings, valvetrain (cams, valve springs, solid lifter conversion if possible) No use having such a big turbo on a RB25 and killing the spool at 7000-73000rpm.

There are much more to consider before commiting yourself for something bigger.

Not necessarily.

My stock RB25 running the GT3082R made peak power @ 8000rpm, power was still climbing then too but tuner didnt want to go past this because of the stock bottom end. I was running turbo, stock exh. mani modified, greddy style intake + 80mm TB, 550cc, EMS, 910 fuel pump, billet rail with larger fittings/lines, splitfires etc. but beyond add ons, engine was completely stock.

It lasted a little while, until I put a good exh. manifold on it and didnt check boost, free flow = 26+ psi lol and killed 2 pistons on a cruise.

Not necessarily.

My stock RB25 running the GT3082R made peak power @ 8000rpm, power was still climbing then too but tuner didnt want to go past this because of the stock bottom end. I was running turbo, stock exh. mani modified, greddy style intake + 80mm TB, 550cc, EMS, 910 fuel pump, billet rail with larger fittings/lines, splitfires etc. but beyond add ons, engine was completely stock.

It lasted a little while, until I put a good exh. manifold on it and didnt check boost, free flow = 26+ psi lol and killed 2 pistons on a cruise.

Yea, you can stuff a GT30 and beyond on a stock motor but did it last?

i look at it as the motor is gonna go if you push close to risky numbers and a bad tune it can go with alot less power, so goto a turbo with headroom for more WHEN (not if, its when!) you rebuild it or you will be doing the turbo change again later on :D something small like a gt28 is a waste of time and wont feel quick for long and you will want more. Choose one size up from the power figures you think you are chasing as you will always want abit more, just run low boost for the meantime until you upgrade the motor etc. A 3076r or 3082r is a good option imo for a 2.5L, if it was a 3L i'd push towards the 3582r.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...