Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What turbo/ 's are you going to use ? Interested to know as I have similar 2.8 build being done here in Japan by HKS.

They were reccomending HKS 2830's with the V Cam and 2248/274 cam combo. Supposed to idle pretty standard but boost comes on real early and pulls all the way to top RPM..I went for drive in one of their customers gtr and was bloody impressive.

Mines at a stand still at the moment, still waiting for head to come back from the NAPREC

Edited by elrodeo666
  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That was supposed to be 2835 turbo's

What turbo/ 's are you going to use ? Interested to know as I have similar 2.8 build being done here in Japan by HKS.

They were reccomending HKS 2830's with the V Cam and 2248/274 cam combo. Supposed to idle pretty standard but boost comes on real early and pulls all the way to top RPM..I went for drive in one of their customers gtr and was bloody impressive.

Mines at a stand still at the moment, still waiting for head to come back from the NAPREC

V- Cam unpacking

I have always found the unpacking process fascinating, so I have documented it with these photos to share with everyone.

post-32660-1244628459_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628499_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628549_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628595_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628636_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628672_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628715_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628757_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628791_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628826_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628878_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628918_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244628954_thumb.jpgpost-32660-1244628984_thumb.jpg

post-32660-1244629022_thumb.jpg

Thank goodness Benno has worked out how to install it. The instructions are entirely written in Japanese!

dont mean to sound like a retard but is the HKS vcam kit essentially the same thing as the RB25 VCT? variable cam timing?

sure the RB25 setup you can't touch / tune etc, but the same logics, that is, a variable cam timing system - cam timing that changes, with load etc

What turbo/ 's are you going to use ? Interested to know as I have similar 2.8 build being done here in Japan by HKS.

They were reccomending HKS 2830's with the V Cam and 2248/274 cam combo. Supposed to idle pretty standard but boost comes on real early and pulls all the way to top RPM..I went for drive in one of their customers gtr and was bloody impressive.

Mines at a stand still at the moment, still waiting for head to come back from the NAPREC

A set of off the shelf Garrett 2860R -5s will be installed.

In Cam as per V Cam Type A setup - Valve timing 90-120 degress, valve lift 8.6mm, duration IN 248

Ex Cam - 256 valve lift 8.7mm

It should be interesting how much boost these will develop in the hands of the maestro. The secret is in the rest of the package so I am led to believe. The truth will be told when I take my first test drive once its completed. Car is in the workshop atm.

You are spot on paul r33. If I put a RB25 head on a RB26 bottom end and get someone who knows how to put it together, then I will essentially get the same result without the HKS badge!

Sneak peek:

post-32660-1243148737_thumb.jpg + post-32660-1243148843_thumb.jpg + Dose of Racepace Magic

= Total Awesomeness!

I saw this beast finished @ Beno's today, when dropping mine 32 in & picking up Pete's 32.

This 34 looked very clean & crisp. Good Luck with car bud, seems u pland well & workd hard to achieve a fantastic result.

Keep us update..

:mad:

so its just the intake cam that has the VCT yeah? I would imagine this would be much more efficient than the 25 VCT as you can tune it right through the rev range not just switch it on and off

Sweet setup, so its nearly finished? make sure to post a dyno chart when its done:) will be a response monster!

I believe my car is next in line... I should have bribed Benno to drop that stroker crank into my build, you would never have known;) lol

No dry sump? :P

Dry sumps must be a NSW thing. As far as I've seen at the track, there is not one dry sumped car in Vic, however we never seem to see oil starvation blow ups either.

It sure looks sexy with the pumps and all, but is it really necessary for club cars where a well made sump does the trick?

There sure are some monster RB's in the build right now.

Glad i know of a couple that are NSW based so you Vic guys dont hog all the fun hahaha

Seriously though, great setup, looking forward to seeing the results :P

No dry sump is planned. Just a larger capacity oil sump with High performance/high flow Tomei Oil Pump. In fact the V Cam needs oil line to work properly and HKS does recommend a higher capacity Oil pump.

That does look like a fairly simple system, I guess yes the principle is exactly the same as the 25 VCT, oil supply, a solonoid to switch it on and off...this is awesome!

The thing I like most is the HKS POWER rocker cover. Its very very special, and they even give you the little red V-CAM badge!

This car will be insane...considering Aaron's 34 with the 2.8 and -5s made 350kw at 3,500 rpm? and 450 at like 7 something? (Cant remember exactly).

Built by the same genius plus the V-Cam....I really cant wait to see the graph...

Really good work on the pics Matt, its like were all opening the box ourselves! Except we dont get to touch and do other naughty things with the parts :)

I must admit Ben is like an eccentric craftsman (no offfence to him). He has good enough reputation for him to be selective with his clientele. And no he did not shake his head when I approached him with the job. Its for other reasons which will come into light in the near future.

As for turbos, I can't get hold of any Garrett-5 as they are on back order world wide. I am considering a set of HKS 2530s or Tomei ARMS B7660 now. But just for the HKS or Tomei brand will cost twice as much as the Garretts off the shelf. :P

Seeing Benno tomorrow

Dont mean to do a thread hijack

I'm in the same boat..once I made the decision to go the -5's and ordered them up, been waiting a good month or so and looks like awhile yet. Glad my head is taking forever and everything is at standstill.

If you want to spend some coin, most guys here running the V Cam go the HKS HKS 2835's with the and 248 In /274 Ex... they are beasts to drive, absolute weapons but pretty exxy.. I could get you bit of a discount thru HKS if your keen. I initially had this plan but went the -5's as was just after something near the 600-650ps margin. The HKS 2835's and V Cam would be easy 700+ps. The ones I have test driven have been 700 to 800ps..

What computer unit you going to run. Reason being there is another bloke in WA dunning Apex Pc and having major dramas. I had a talk with tuning maestros guys at HKS and they reckon anything other than Fcon Vpro and mdel before you will be pushing shit up hill..its doable but you will have a hard time trying to sort it out. Its typical HKS, all their stuff is made to run hand in hand and not with the competition.

I'm trying to suss some tuners in oz who would put up their garages for a week or 2 while my mate comes out and does some tuning but there is the whole political side with HKS to work out yet. Right now its an idea but we've put it on the table here and see what happens.

This was a GTR33 that had limeted edition V Cam

post-43319-1245236814_thumb.jpg post-43319-1245236841_thumb.jpg

post-43319-1245236862_thumb.jpg

Edited by elrodeo666

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...