Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ill certainly ask Hypergear. Just reading through the sites you linked, it would seem the SS1 and SS1 billet machined turbo are the best match for what I need - maximum low end response. Anyone using those models?

What are your power goals?

Modest, in fact not much more than stock. I was running 9psi, and I think Ill be leaving the stock ECU, hence why I am looking for a close-to-stock replacement (a bolt on replacement). Torque and boost rolling off at higher rpms isnt a big deal since its a daily driver, meaning I also want to keep low end response as good as possible. If I get some stronger midrange torque, then thats nice too.

Any info on why the GCG option doesnt end well?

Also my understanding is that these hypergear units (SS1) are new turbos, but still cheaper than GCG where you have to send your existing one off to be modified.....

What are your power goals?

I hate to be 'that guy' but changing the Turbo at all, in any way, in any form, in any possible configuration means you should immediately obtain a tunable ECU. Do not do it otherwise.

If you simply want a replacement turbo that will run fine on the stock ecu, let Stao know and he will make a stock sized highflow.

The GCG units are generally GT3076 cores stuffed into factory housings. You said you don't want lag... Garrett BB cores don't like the high thrust loads usually found when stuffing such large cores into small housings. Hypergear generally use bush cores for this reason.

Stao can highflow your core, or supply a complete turbo. Up to you. Ring him or message, and have a chat about your options.

Out of interest, isnt a hi-flowed turbo effectively a different turbo? The SS1 turbo I was referencing seems to be a close match to stock, certainly comparable to the hi-flow modified one.

I hate to be 'that guy' but changing the Turbo at all, in any way, in any form, in any possible configuration means you should immediately obtain a tunable ECU. Do not do it otherwise.

Out of interest, isnt a hi-flowed turbo effectively a different turbo? The SS1 turbo I was referencing seems to be a close match to stock, certainly comparable to the hi-flow modified one.

"Hi flow" is a loose term for a rebuilt turbo which may in fact be rebuilt to original specs or to produce a little or a lot more power. Hypergear can build to your requirements so an email or a phone call would be a good place to start.

Yeah, Ive already sent an email. Even the standard hi-flow they list says the compressor and exhaust wheels are replaced with larger steel wheels, hence my question that isnt a new turbo which closely matches the characteristics of the original effectively no different to the ECU (if a high flowed one is fine on a stock ECU)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...