Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Also a site sponsor on here has told me the gt3076r does not come with anti surge inlet on the compressor any more.

It now comes with a standard 4 inch smooth bell mouth inlet

Beauty, if that's true.

That's exactly what I originally ordered.

Apparently the slots reduce high rpm efficiency. Anyway , a properly fitted and quality BOV does the job.

I wonder if HKS will follow.

How does a BOV replace the effect of anti-surge slots when these anti surge slots minimise compressor surge when the turbo is spooling under acceleration.

In this instance compressor surge happens when the turbo is spooling too fast for the engine to swallow the airflow it is providing i.e. at low rpm. As a result the air backs up in the turbo system and ends up coming back out of the compressor intake. This type of surge is more prone to happening when your using relatively smallish ex a/r's on biggish compressors as the small ex a/r is more likely to spool the compressor faster at low engine rpm which is usually when the problem arises. The anti-surge slots are effectively a bypass system.

PS I just picked up a 3076 and it had the anti-surge slots.

How does a BOV replace the effect of anti-surge slots when these anti surge slots minimise compressor surge when the turbo is spooling under acceleration.

In this instance compressor surge happens when the turbo is spooling too fast for the engine to swallow the airflow it is providing i.e. at low rpm. As a result the air backs up in the turbo system and ends up coming back out of the compressor intake. This type of surge is more prone to happening when your using relatively smallish ex a/r's on biggish compressors as the small ex a/r is more likely to spool the compressor faster at low engine rpm which is usually when the problem arises. The anti-surge slots are effectively a bypass system.

PS I just picked up a 3076 and it had the anti-surge slots.

Surge can happen under load yes but mainly off throttle.

I wonder why six cylinders are more prone than fours

Anyway...

Hence the need to stay with the Garrett 0.82 rear

Surge can happen under load yes but mainly off throttle.

I wonder why six cylinders are more prone than fours

Anyway...

Hence the need to stay with the Garrett 0.82 rear

This is the surge I'm referring to - which is the most dangerous and is what the surge slots on the 3076 and the like are designed to reduce - No BOV will help you here. Haha...and its a skyline.

You can hear the air backing out of the turbo inlet and being chopped by the compressor blades whilst the turbo is still being driven under load - nasty.

Edited by juggernaut1

I got it through PJ's Quick Bits on NS.com (forum sponsor) $1,350 delivered to Perth - without the rear housing (as I'm upgrading my 3071). Obviously pick up would be cheaper. Just checked my invoice - it was $1,280 without delivery/insurance.

I couldn't get one in WA - MTQ in WA had 40 on backorder available in June. When I rang they said everyone is throwing these turbos (3076's) on all sorts of motors - hence the demand.

Edited by juggernaut1

No the port shrouded compressor housing is not out of production , I've never ever seen a factory GT3076R with a non port shrouded 0.60 A/R large boss T04E compressor housing .

I believe there was a version marketed by HKS that had a std sized T04E 0.60 A/R comp housing and off the top of my head the inlet barb was 2.75" rather than 4" like the port shrouded one .

I think confusion arises because the GT30/T04S version of these turbos uses a 0.70 A/R T04S comp housing - like a GT3582R has . These housings have the large non port shrouded bell mouthed inlet bosses .

As always , check the turbos ID tag . If it doesn't say 700177-7 or -6 it ain't a real GT3076R with the GT37 series compressor wheel . The "37" in GT3037 is what makes it a real GT3076R .

Clear as mud I know , in the old numbering system 30 and 37 meant GT30 turbine with GT37 series comp wheel .

With the current system 30 and 76 means GT30 turbine with 76mm diameter compressor .

Trouble is that some T04S comp wheels are 3" or ~ 76mm OD as well .

Long story short , count the number of compressor blades (6/12 or 7/14) and note the A/R number cast into the comp housing . 6/12 blades + 0.60 A/R generally means the real one along with the -7 or -6 CHRA prefix .

7/14 + 0.70 A/R usually means a GT30/T04S .

If it has 6/12 blades and the larger 0.70 A/R comp cover with a -14 CHRA prefix it's most likely a GT3082R ( GT3040R in old speak) .

A .

Also a site sponsor on here has told me the gt3076r does not come with anti surge inlet on the compressor any more.

It now comes with a standard 4 inch smooth bell mouth inlet

I was given this same run around a few years ago when trying to buy my true GT3076R - everyone kept pointing me at the T04S covered version with the different compressor wheel, I even provided them with the CHRA reference to make sure they gave it. I tried a guy who uses an Australian supplier they swore by (SAU Sponsor too I believe) and they at best glanced at it and told me "That version has been phased out, this is the newer/better one". Anything to make a sale, eh?

I ended up buying my REAL GT30R from ATPturbo.com, never looked back.

Had the gt3076r with 0.7 rear housing (Had the id tag 3037) So that core with the Garrett Gt30 anti surge front housing and AVO rear housing to suit rb25det.

Couldnt push more then 250rwkw on 20psi without major det, dont think that rear housing is any good, id stick with the garrett one or got for an hks gt3037 pro s

i fitted a 3037 badged 3076 with the 0.62 or 0.64 skyline pattern rear housing (can't remember which one) to a mates 33 a year or 2 ago and with a basic tune and about 17psi it made 251kw and the motor wasn't the healthiest specimen either. the turbo was from GCG i'm pretty sure

No the port shrouded compressor housing is not out of production , I've never ever seen a factory GT3076R with a non port shrouded 0.60 A/R large boss T04E compressor housing .

I believe there was a version marketed by HKS that had a std sized T04E 0.60 A/R comp housing and off the top of my head the inlet barb was 2.75" rather than 4" like the port shrouded one .

I think confusion arises because the GT30/T04S version of these turbos uses a 0.70 A/R T04S comp housing - like a GT3582R has . These housings have the large non port shrouded bell mouthed inlet bosses .

As always , check the turbos ID tag . If it doesn't say 700177-7 or -6 it ain't a real GT3076R with the GT37 series compressor wheel . The "37" in GT3037 is what makes it a real GT3076R .

Clear as mud I know , in the old numbering system 30 and 37 meant GT30 turbine with GT37 series comp wheel .

With the current system 30 and 76 means GT30 turbine with 76mm diameter compressor .

Trouble is that some T04S comp wheels are 3" or ~ 76mm OD as well .

Long story short , count the number of compressor blades (6/12 or 7/14) and note the A/R number cast into the comp housing . 6/12 blades + 0.60 A/R generally means the real one along with the -7 or -6 CHRA prefix .

7/14 + 0.70 A/R usually means a GT30/T04S .

If it has 6/12 blades and the larger 0.70 A/R comp cover with a -14 CHRA prefix it's most likely a GT3082R ( GT3040R in old speak) .

A .

doofy got a 3076 from a site sponsor the other day and it had the unslotted 0.70 A/R front on it so i said to him that it might be a 3082 but when he measured the ID it wasn't as big as the 3082. can't remember what exhuast housing he got, but it was 0.8 something

This is the real one .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_700382_12.htm

If them as says you can't get these insists look elswhere .

Cheers A .

Gt3076r the avo 0.7 rear 3037 core

post-57476-1243670444_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670469_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670484_thumb.jpg

Gt3076r the Garrett one, this is what u want

post-57476-1243670901_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670630_thumb.jpg

Also a site sponsor on here has told me the gt3076r does not come with anti surge inlet on the compressor any more.

It now comes with a standard 4 inch smooth bell mouth inlet

This is what I was told as well

No the port shrouded compressor housing is not out of production , I've never ever seen a factory GT3076R with a non port shrouded 0.60 A/R large boss T04E compressor housing .

I believe there was a version marketed by HKS that had a std sized T04E 0.60 A/R comp housing and off the top of my head the inlet barb was 2.75" rather than 4" like the port shrouded one .

I think confusion arises because the GT30/T04S version of these turbos uses a 0.70 A/R T04S comp housing - like a GT3582R has . These housings have the large non port shrouded bell mouthed inlet bosses .

As always , check the turbos ID tag . If it doesn't say 700177-7 or -6 it ain't a real GT3076R with the GT37 series compressor wheel . The "37" in GT3037 is what makes it a real GT3076R .

Clear as mud I know , in the old numbering system 30 and 37 meant GT30 turbine with GT37 series comp wheel .

With the current system 30 and 76 means GT30 turbine with 76mm diameter compressor .

Trouble is that some T04S comp wheels are 3" or ~ 76mm OD as well .

Long story short , count the number of compressor blades (6/12 or 7/14) and note the A/R number cast into the comp housing . 6/12 blades + 0.60 A/R generally means the real one along with the -7 or -6 CHRA prefix .

7/14 + 0.70 A/R usually means a GT30/T04S .

If it has 6/12 blades and the larger 0.70 A/R comp cover with a -14 CHRA prefix it's most likely a GT3082R ( GT3040R in old speak) .

A .

So with everything that has been said in this thread, wtf do I have?!

Don't know the ID tag (it's at home) but measured the comp wheel and it was the size mentioned by Garrett to be the 3076... My biggest problem was no anti surge slots, but they can be drilled in the future if need be...

img00495200905260120.jpg

Just spoke to a supplier and they have stock of the t3 IW .82 rear housings.

The supply problem is with the actual turbo. They are on back order.

Waiting for them to call back when they will be available.

Otherwise I will give up on the aussie guys and go to Atpturbo.

The extra long manifold studs needed for the spacer plate are hard to find as well.

Can mild steel studs 65mm long, but no hi tensile ones.

Gt3076r the avo 0.7 rear 3037 core

post-57476-1243670444_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670469_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670484_thumb.jpg

Gt3076r the Garrett one, this is what u want

post-57476-1243670901_thumb.jpgpost-57476-1243670630_thumb.jpg

its interesting to see that is where that 5stud garrett housing came from, i've seen them used in highflow setups before had always wondered what housing it was.

This is the surge I'm referring to - which is the most dangerous and is what the surge slots on the 3076 and the like are designed to reduce - No BOV will help you here. Haha...and its a skyline.

You can hear the air backing out of the turbo inlet and being chopped by the compressor blades whilst the turbo is still being driven under load - nasty.

[/quote

]

Nasty !

Interesting...

Wouldn't you expect Garrett would port shroud the bigger 0.7 comp rather than 0.6 as it's the larger comps more likely to surge ?

Also curious to know what differences the 0.6 and the 0.7 comp cover would have between eachother with the same wheel, trim and rear.

Or would the 0.7 have the 82mm wheel ?

Edited by conan7772
I've just ordered a GT3076r for an RB25/30

Comp 0.6A/R

Trim 56

Turbine 0.82A/R

Recently been advised this configuation isn't available, only with a 0.86 A/R rear.

Who makes the 0.86 ?

If I strictly want the 0.82 rear then trim has to be 52 and Comp cover either 0.5 or 0.7 A/R.

Can anyone please confirm these specs are correct.

Cheers.

Found it.

The 0.86 rear is an ATP set up with the 90 trim GT3071 turbine.

They call it the GT3076R-WG 500hp

Wouldn't you expect Garrett would port shroud the bigger 0.7 comp rather than 0.6 as it's the larger comps more likely to surge ?

Also curious to know what differences the 0.6 and the 0.7 comp cover would have between eachother with the same wheel, trim and rear.

Or would the 0.7 have the 82mm wheel ?

Don't look at the compressor cover as being a determining factor for surge - that housing is pretty much a carrier for the air being forced in to the engine. The overall size/spec of the turbine, and the size/specification of the impeller within the comp housing are what I understand will dictate the general flow characteristics of the turbocharger. Force the compressor to turn fast/hard/early and you can get to the point of trying to push more air than the engine can ingest at certain load/speed ranges. That leads to the rapid oscillating column of air and the surge condition that gives the chuff/chuff / chirp/chirp noise.

Changing from a 0.6 A/R to 0.7 A/R comp housing won't change a whole lot. That is a size ratio only, it does not describe an absolute size. When that number does become relevant is when he housings were designed within the same family. Then the bigger number indicates an ability to pass a larger air mass.

An example of this would be the Ford XR6 GT3582 - 1.06 turbine, 0.50 compressor housings. I've seen people swap in a 0.70 comp cover to provide a bit more top end flow capacity. Also compare the 0.82 GT35 turbine housing, and it will flow less air mass than the 1.06 - but it will spin the turbine faster/earlier and give a different sort of response.

Garrett and Borg Warner offer some very good tutorials to explain all of the above, with pictures to assist.

Check Discopotato03's post and it's quite clear that just because something called a GT30 has a 0.70 A/R comp cover does not automatically mean it is a GT3082. It could well be a 7 bladed TO4S based GT3076 (which I think could not be legitimately called a GT3037 because the comp wheel does not belong to the 37 series). Point being you have to look at the signs, and source the CHRA spec sheets. Check out the number of blades, read the part number and cross reference it to what the manufacturer badged it as.

The picture posted by DRD-OOF shows a 7 bladed comp wheel - that should be a fairly strong indicator as to what he has got. Technical differences aside, I think it would run pretty well. The main disadvantage that I see is lower compressor efficiency at high speeds that leads to higher inlet temps and a touch lower absolute power output from the engine.

What the port shrouded compressor covers do is make these GT3076R/GT3037S turbos a wider ranging unit .

They cope better with smaller ratio turbine housings than a non port shrouded unit can .

For example , HKS sold suitable turbine housings for these GT30 based turbos down to 0.61 A/R . That's whats needed to get a 500+ Hp capable turbocharger to spool up on say a CA18 or RB20 , these engines in basic street tune may or may not be able to swallow 500 Hp's worth of air and the port shrouded compressor cover helps cycle/recycle the extra air that the engine may not feel like using .

I get the feeling that compressor covers/housings on these GT3071R/GT3076R/GT3082R/GT3582R turbos are a bit of a mystery family wise .

Basically GT3071R's normally have a T04E family bell mouthed 0.50 A/R comp housing .

GT3076R/GT3037's a T04E 0.60 A/R housing , PS'd on GT3076R and GT3037"S" and plain on GT3037 .

GT30/T04S with the 7/14 blade compressor , 0.70 A/R T04S housing to match its T04S comp wheel .

GT3040R/GT3082R , these also have the larger family T04S 0.70 A/R comp housing .

GT3582R generic , as above the T04S 0.70 A/R housing .

GT3582R-XR6T . This one's unique because Ford opted for a 0.50 A/R T04"E" comp cover basically like a GT3071R uses but with the small std non PS'd inlet boss .

It also has a large ratio 1.06 A/R IW turbine housing on it . My guess is that Ford didn't want to pay anyone to develop a close matching turbocharger for the "250 Cu with an education" engine . So they opt for an off the shelf Garrett GT3582R cartridge and a big ratio turbine housing (which they did have developed here in Aus I'm told) and a small family and ratio comp housing for that 82mm GT40 compressor .

They weren't looking for a lot of airflow or boost in the XR6T because it doesn't take heaps of either to make a 4L DOHC 24V engine feel torquey - in relation to their bitza V8 .

So lowish pressure in the hot side of a soft .. tuned 4L 6 and a little extra wind in the cold side .

Yes people do fit the larger T04S 0.70 A/R comp housing and adapter ring to original XR6 spec turbos though there is a direct fit comp housing from Garret that fits the XR6 variants T04E adapter ring - and has the 2" outlet like the std XR6 turbos housing - T04S is usually 4" in and 2.5" out .

Ah I forgot to mention , how could I forget , that Garrett is now selling model specific GT3071R's and GT3076R's in twin scroll twin integral waste gate for for the current Mitsy Evolution 10 Lancers . Burger with the works meaning 0.73 or 0.94 A/R TS TIW (TWIG = twin waste gate internal gig) turbine housings and 0.60 A/R comp housings . Sadly they use the Mitsy mounting flange on that turbine housing but if you are up for a custom exhaust manifold ....

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...