Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See i told you they'd make a difference!

I have the Gordgee ones on mine and the build quality is well the best you can get. And the support was great too. They came in a RHD kit and with RHD instructions. There were 10 wires 4gauge each.

I actually wrote down all the lengths of them when I got them so I can duplicate them if needed, but I forgot to post them up and have since lost the measurements... sorry! I don't think it would be difficult to make some up yourself, but if you don't mind paying the 230 odd dollars to get them as I said they are great quality.

When I installed them, I installed them in stages to see where the difference was made. I actually drove around for months in between and got a good idea if they made any difference. No I didn't remove any cables between stages.

1) I installed the six cables that go round the block and chassis first - no difference.

2) Then I installed the cable that goes from the block to the negative battery terminal - night and day change. Car started quicker, more responsive throttle, gear changes quicker(on the CVT)

3) Cable between the ECU and TCU - Didn't notice any discernable difference

4) Cable from the block to the transmission - No change again

5) Cable from the block to the ECU - No change again

So, if I was to build them myself I would install the cable that goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal first and see if it made any difference and maybe leave it at that.

If someone is willing to do a test when they receive their batch of cables, could you install just this wire first and see if it makes a difference? It's been bugging me for a while now :laugh:

Cheers.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I bought a generic grounding kit from HK (well, bought it 3 years ago for about $50 AUD) and it comprised of 5 cables, but reading this thread, it seems that I am missing 3!!! (in order to be just as good as the US kit)...

I have wired up mine a bit differently though....And I'll take a few pics to show you (after tomorrow's VIC Meet). The only cable I think is an 'essential' is the tranny one, so I am gonna find another wire to do it.

can you post pic on yours??

those who installed the tranny cable, just wondering how far up you need to squeeze underneath?

With the car jacked and on stand, is it easier to squeeze in from the driver side (since the instruction said it was on US' passenger side),

or is it easier from the front on?

  • 5 months later...
can you post pic on yours??

those who installed the tranny cable, just wondering how far up you need to squeeze underneath?

With the car jacked and on stand, is it easier to squeeze in from the driver side (since the instruction said it was on US' passenger side),

or is it easier from the front on?

As above, what's the best way to install the tranny cable? I should probably get some jack stands first but perhaps it can be done with just the car jacked up? Everything else installed pretty easily, haven't gone out for a drive yet tho but is an ECU reset really needed before any potential changes appear? thx

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Fitted the earth kit today and found out that the AT wire is too short and cant reach to the transmission on my V35 250GT!

Its about 5cm too short.

So for now i leave the AT wire off and all other wires fitted with no problem.

The instructions came with the kit is easy to follow but the photos would be great if is in colours and not just black and white.

Anyone fitted the AT wire to the transmission?

Here is a photo of the kit fitted:

IMG_4533_Medium.jpg

Edited by Son Gokou
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
hey guys i bought the sxexcx kit and i installed it al but just the at wire i cant seem to find where to the tranny it connects, any help? - or a pic would be awesome too.

On the transmission dipstick, use the existing bolt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...