Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have a socket set and i have ur normal tools. shifters spanners and screw drivers...

i looked under the rocketcovers and i notice there are allenkey bolts for the head...

can someone tell me what size these are so i can go buy it and

any other tool that i might need in the process of getting the head of the rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273428-rb25-head-removal/
Share on other sites

are they about a 10mm allenkey? ul need a breakerbar id imagine, with a socket that fits a small 10mm allenkey fittin into it. rattlegun and air rachet make things easier haha.

yeah dont have a airgun >.< but thanks

also will i need a new headgasket and is there a certain way i have to tighten the bolts back up and or certain strength?

lol if u havent pulled a engine apart before i would not be attempting it on your own car if u still want it to run (no offence)

the first tool ull need is the workshop manual..... look around and it tells u step by step of how to do it....reason being wen u pull your head off your not just undoing a few bolts and bam..... ur pulling off your exhaust, ur intake, ur timing belt and about 70% of all the bolts on the engine.

and yes there is a certain way of undoing and retightening the bolts...

lol if u havent pulled a engine apart before i would not be attempting it on your own car if u still want it to run (no offence)

the first tool ull need is the workshop manual..... look around and it tells u step by step of how to do it....reason being wen u pull your head off your not just undoing a few bolts and bam..... ur pulling off your exhaust, ur intake, ur timing belt and about 70% of all the bolts on the engine.

and yes there is a certain way of undoing and retightening the bolts...

i have never opened an engine but ive done...

suspsension

brakes

turbo installs

changed engines in my car

and more so im more then sure i can do it...?

sorry if i offended u im not underminding ur mechanical ability just trying to look out for u thats all....

get your hands on a workshop manual tho.....or something will go wrong.

why are u taking it off in the first place?

nah its kool man,

to cut a long story short...

bottom of spark plug is in my engine cause had a misfire and found out was the plug so i took it out and bottom wasnt on it...

fixed problem and i can hear it in the engine jumping around.

so yeah cant drive untill its done

Has it cracked a headgasket or been overheaten?

there is nothing wrong with the head never had trouble,

he just said when ever u take a alloy head off a car it always needs to be milled so yeah is he talking rubbish to get me scared and take it to him

I'd be trying to get that bit out without pulling the head - have you exhausted all options?

Re: machining the head, on cast heads you can use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure how out of straight it is. There should be spec in workshop manual about how much is ok without machining. I wouldnt imagine that alloy would be any different, but i'm sure the workshop manual will have the info.

have you tried to fill the cylinder with oil @ BDC and turn the engine over by hand and hopefully the oil will push out the bottom of the plug?

Worth a shot instead of pulling the head off.

Piece of string or thin rope, coated in grease. Stuff it into the cylinder, bring the cylinder nearly tp TDC, the grease should pick up the broken bit of spark plug.

If you must pull the head, do a search for the torque specs and remove / install order.

is it the steel part or the ceramic part? if its steel- I'd be getting a small magnet on a wire or rubbing a screw driver on a speaker magnet and then putting it down the spark plug hole. and hopefully u pick it up.

yeah ill try that tomorrow but the last time i started it to show someone i knew it wasnt bouncing around in there so im a bit worried its gone somewhere else cause u can slightly hear it sometimes

Piece of string or thin rope, coated in grease. Stuff it into the cylinder, bring the cylinder nearly tp TDC, the grease should pick up the broken bit of spark plug.

That's a damn good idea. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but I'm going to throw that one in the old bag-o-tricks for sure. Nice tip :D

If you do decide to take the head off. then to do the job properly you will need:

Workshop manual (Most important thing, without it don't bother because you will need all the torque settings)

Harmonic ballancer puller

10mm allen key socket.

Full socket set and all your basic tools

Torque wrench

Razor blade (to get the old head gasket material off the block)

Headgasket (or just get a VRS kit and do all your seals and gaskets while your at it)

Deck the head

New head studs

Engine Oil

Coolant

If you haven't done your timing belt and idler do that at the same time.

That's all i can think of for the time being.

Edited by PM-R33

I have a copy of the workshop manual too, if you want a copy, PM me your email address.

It's an electronic form (PDF)

As to the plug tip, if you've started it since then, I'd actually be pulling the head.

There is a HIGHLY likely chance you've f**ked the bores, or a valve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...