Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good to see dedication.............as far as im concerned. unless i get an email directly from sony or polyphony telling me more details i'll ignore the other hype, where ever it is writen..ill wait, and play other games in the mean time. A

s for buying an Xbox........forza 3 is the ONLY reason i would even contemplate that as it is a dam good game. but 1 game aint gonna get me to buy an xbox. thats why i have a PC.

Bozodos is sounding like the door to door bible bashers trying to sell you Jesus although it clearly saiys athiest on the door.do you scan the site looking for pages that say PS3 just so you can tell us to buy an Xbox? (most peeps do own both)

Edited by boiracer
If the full game resembles the prologue i have to say that the wait will not be worth it.

Having played prologue non stop since it came out, then play Forza 3, Polyphony has to come up with something spectacular.

And i fear that GT5 just wont cut the mustard. I mean 5 years of development?

In theory Prologue should look and and feel like GT2 compared to the new game with the amount of time spent on it.

Someone dropped the ball somewhere, and no amount of fine tuning of the game will pull them out of the shit, and they know it. They are just delaying the inevitable walk away from the series :huh:

I fear you may be right Dave :D

nah boiracer, just saying that there's a viable alternative for racing sim lovers already released.

Arrogant wanker devs who keep their games as vapourware long past announced release dates like this deserve to lose public support, like 3DRealms.

I'm starting to get excited bout this coming out. A few more months is fine, as long as they get the game spot on.

Downloaded GT Academy this morning. Must say i love the sound of the gearbox whine on the tuned car. Might need a new TV with 1080 to make the most of the game though.

For me personally. The number 1 concern I have is what they do with the Modification system in the game. After prologue Ive been worried they would swap the system over to that lame power up by 20%, weight down by 10% rubbish. This would really put me off the game bigtime. Im hoping they use a GT4 type system but much more comprehensive where you buy individual parts of different levels. Then they move the power band around suitably, even effects like clutch slip if your power exceeds your other mods just like reality would make for an awesome feature. 1 thing I'd keep from prologue is keeping a decent group of races using a points system (albeit with the much nicer mod system) to keep certain races as close as possible. (Yes sometimes you don't want to race a 600kw GTR against stocko Hybrids :P

Sadly my idea of a mod system with clutch slip, brake fade and overheating are probably just a dream. Maybe in 30 years time with Gran Turismo 7 or 8 at the rate they are going.

Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...