Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was wondering if any1 here has installed a sprint booster in their v35s here? and what your opinions are of them are?

for those that dont know what it is simply put, is an easy DIY mod that increases throttle response to reduce lag for drive-by-wire cars and there's no hp to be gained.

the only downside i see (from what i've read so far) is that the sprint booster somehow overrides the safety features in down shifting ie. shifting down from 2nd to 1st at 60km/h. and ur mileage as u'd want to press the gas more :thumbsup: .

Prices for these are around 300USD+/-50USD without shipping

Relating articles include:

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetr...or-testers.html

http://g35driver.com/forums/canada/290929-sprintbooster.html

Edited by Will Power
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 4 months later...

Ok I thought I'd bump this thread rather than starting a new one as I remembered this was brought up a while ago.

Before I proceed, just to clarify, I am not selling this product nor am I affiliated with the businesses that are selling these. Purpose of my post is to try and get some of you to try it just like I have because I was a skeptic before but now am a believer!

NO more ifs or maybe it will work....it WORKS period!

A week ago my Merc B200 Turbo was at my mechanics getting a few things done...When I went to pick up my car...he asked me whether I remember how it drives, I said sure...he went and got something, ducked into my car stuck something on underneath the dash...and told me to jump into the car and go for a drive...I did and was instantly blown away! Only needed 1/5th throttle and the car felt like it was possessed! Pushing the accelerator down a bit further gave me instant power across the whole rev range. I asked him what it was he did to the car and he said Sprint Booster. He told me to have it for the day and come back the next day to return or get it if I wanted to...drove around with it the next day went back to my mechanic and paid him no questions asked!

The night before I went and paid for it, I did all my research on the net. People with Mercs and Beemers that had used it were all raving about it...even guys with AMG mercs had them. Finally found out it was available for the V35s as well...so I was contemplating whether or not it would have the same effect as it did on my Merc.

This afternoon I bit the bullet and went to 999 Automotive at Coopers Plains whom I knew stocked it and purchased one for the V. I asked them if they would install it for me and they said no problems come back on Monday coz they were pretty busy then. No worries, paid for it and left. Got home, couldn't wait did a bit of searching on G35 Driver forum and attempted to fit it. Took me 1 min flat..ok maybe 2 to plug it in straight away took it out for a test drive.

I kid you not I could not wipe the smile off my face! Short of doing anything illegal the car was a monster to drive! I had renewed interest in driving the V now and trust me this is no placebo effect or butt dyno imagination. The Sprint Booster does what it is advertised to do which is boost or amplify your throttle and acceleration...no more lag!

Before anyone goes "yeah right what a crock of shit" this mod DOES NOT INCREASE HP in anyway. Whatever power your car puts out it remains the same...all it does is delivers it to you quicker, effortlessly and puts the FUN back in driving!

So yeah there you go, my review on the product which I now have on both my cars.

If you think its a waste of money I would say it would be money better spent than eg: $300-$400 on a brand name CAI and flashy Z tube.

So before you try and show off your keyboard skills and try and talk this down, I challenge you to try it before you comment.

I have come across many negative comments about this product during the course of my research but they have all come from ppl who have not tried it, so bear that in mind.

If anyone here goes out and tries this and does not come back with a smile on his face I will be more than happy for you to call me "STUPID" :rofl:

Cheers and Happy Motoring...you can thank me later!

post-6973-1257584052_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923468
Share on other sites

looks like I need to try one :rofl:

jon,

more info when you get a sec.

Here's the UK website. These things are made in Greece.

http://www.sprint-booster.co.uk/

Contrary to their installation instructions, no tools were required on the V, I just crawled underneath the drivers side found the plug connecting to the accelerator, unplugged it, stuck the SB in between and plug back on, simple as that.

Great thing about this is it does not void the new car warranty on the Merc as its undetectable in the system.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923568
Share on other sites

any differences or preferences in brands like sprint booster or blitz throttle controller??

i know the blitz throttle controller has a reverse gear lockout. Sprint booster have this?

Never tried the Blitz one so can't really comment but from what I have read they do the same thing except the Blitz version has a few different settings, requires wiring it up and has a fancy display. SB is pretty much stealth. Not sure about reverse gear lockout. I'll let you know if I reverse into a pole at 50km/h :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923584
Share on other sites

if you guys ahve an aftermarket ECU which can control throttle it will do the same thing.

Basically when you put your foot down on the accelerator on the V35 / 350Z, the butteryfly opens up but not 100%. This make sures that the butterfly opens up 100% hence technically more air / more faster / more power etc.

I know haltech i think are working on or just released a 350Z ECU which can control throttle. Im going to be getting the ECU instead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923956
Share on other sites

I'm not so sure these can actually make it open 100%. More of a open quicker/faster and also opens more than what the factory map would at a preset throttle position so it seems the car has gained response.

Happy to stand corrected but from what i've read and understand, if you just press on the throttle of a car quicker and harder, same result.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923982
Share on other sites

only aftermarket ECUs can directly control the TB and remove the TB opening limit, this device has already been described as just pushing the throttle more than your foot. ie, it does nothing.

you can spend as little or as much as you want and youll never overcome the ECU throttle limit unless you remap it, or get an aftermarket ECU. there is no other way.

has anyone thought about changing to a cable activated throttle?? i bet its possible

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923988
Share on other sites

only aftermarket ECUs can directly control the TB and remove the TB opening limit, this device has already been described as just pushing the throttle more than your foot. ie, it does nothing.

you can spend as little or as much as you want and youll never overcome the ECU throttle limit unless you remap it, or get an aftermarket ECU. there is no other way.

has anyone thought about changing to a cable activated throttle?? i bet its possible

yep E50 /51 Elgrand has this :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4923995
Share on other sites

It does not go from 0 to WOT. Its gradual and what it does is amplify this by about 30% compared to factory..

Like I said theres no point debating this whole thing unless you try it and experience it for yourself. If you ask nicely most places would probably let you try before you buy. The SB websites in US and UK offer a 30 day money back guarantee as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4924392
Share on other sites

It does not go from 0 to WOT. Its gradual and what it does is amplify this by about 30% compared to factory..

Like I said theres no point debating this whole thing unless you try it and experience it for yourself. If you ask nicely most places would probably let you try before you buy. The SB websites in US and UK offer a 30 day money back guarantee as well.

hey n15m0,

jsut wanted to say i'm glad finally someone gave me a proper answer about the sprint booster,

but as you can see it seems to be a very controversial item on topic even whilst i was researching it on g35driver

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276374-sprint-booster/#findComment-4924463
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...