Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You wouldn't be the first person to start a business from a small project like this. I always like to see people having a go. Good on you. Let us know the end weight and photos of vent cutout then all painted up.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey buddy. im looking to replace my bonnet too. i cant decide between a carbon vented, or a fg vented item.

how stable is the fg item at highway speed?

have u had any problems? easily cracked etc?

Both items are fine, they are just as good as factory items if made properly. Never seem any problems with them cracking or anything, only problem i've seen is with carbon fibre bonnets when the clearcoat/gelcoat fades and turns a whitey colour and sometimes flakes off, usually caused by old age spending too many hours under the sun or just lack of care and it is purely cosmetic.

if you do add any more glass in, do it from underneath, for 2 reasons. 1: saves you having to smooth it out again, and 2: the more you add to the top, the further it is going to sit out from the lights and be higher than the 1/4 panels

post-26632-1247477258_thumb.jpg

there is no carbon fibre bonnet on the market that is as strong as the original metal.

you will find they are quite flexible and thats why you need bonnet pins to stop them lifting on the edges in the wind. They crack when they bend too much, often around the top of the radiator area. If it is pinned down properly it wont flex and will last forever.

fibreglass and carbon will crack or tear in a crash too, unlike a metal bonnet which will fold and bend.

don't go thinking they are stronger is all im saying lol.

here are some pics of what track speeds do to bonnets

post-26632-1247477014_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1247477026_thumb.jpg

i think it isn't so much because it is lighter, but because it is more flexible. steel is rigid so it can just have a single latch in the centre, but fibreglass is more flexible and at speed once a corner started to lift it would just keep on lifting, because the higher it lifts the more force it gets lifting it. if you have ever paid attention on the v8 supercars when they lift the bonnet, it flexes all over the place because it has no frame underneath it.

there are photos of mine and other cars with only two bonnet pins going down the straight at oran park at the sau day with the leading edge of the bonnets a good 10cm above the headlights in the middle. we now use more pins lol.

yes it is because they are flexible, not because they are light. take the frame off a metal bonnet and it will do the same thing. fg or cf will always be more flexible for the same amount of material

how do the r34 v-spec2 gtr's go with their carbon bonnets?

another way to help with flexing and lifting at speed would be to make it with piece of aluminium running along the front where you are going to pin it. bit late to put it it now, but if you were doing it again you could make the front thin, put the aluminium in then make it thicker so that the aluminium is closer to the top. if you had it closer to the bottom layers then there is more chance of the glass just tearing around it, but having it in the upper layers means the force is pushing the glass into it, rather than lifting it away from it if it's lower in the layers.

another thing that would help is spray bog, its perfect for what your doin because theres no highs or lows that an applicator can leave.. just block block block then prime

how much in glass and matting has it set you back? conpared to buying one ?

I dont think there are many diy carbon bonnets in oz.

the flexibility comes from it not being as strong as thick or strong as steel. Most glass or carbon bonnets will flex if you let them. put pins in and it cant flex

awesome thread. so is this going to be a street or race only bonnet. would like to know costs.

legally in vic im quite sure you have to have a metal bonnet, don't think fibreglass is allowed however unlikely they would notice.

Yeah will be for a road car, laws arent too harsh over here. Costs were about $50 for 5L of resin, $5 per square metre of matt, so about $15 - $20 worth, and $30 for body filler so it's been pretty cheap so far.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...