Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To answer some of the various questions:

how you get your hands on one of them?

Sort of one of those things - you either know someone with one who uses it for work or you can't get them.

So what was your conclusion on the fronts?

Too much toe in, camber or presure?

I was pretty happy with the fronts to be honest.

Awesome tool :sick:

So did you get a chance to use it a number of times to see if any adjustment in the susp was helping or was it a once off?

Did you just call me a tool? :):)

Just used it the once (it rained later) to check that the settings were about right. I am reasonably confident they were.

clockwise track? the lefts look really good. right rear pretty good too, though obviously not working as hard overall and right front not bad, but spread is a fair bit wider.

pretty sexy piece of gear. thanks for sharing big fella. :sick:

clockwise track? the lefts look really good. right rear pretty good too, though obviously not working as hard overall and right front not bad, but spread is a fair bit wider.

pretty sexy piece of gear. thanks for sharing big fella. :D

Yeah its Wanneroo so clockwise. Only four serious corners, three right handers - 2 x 180 degree & 1 x 90 & one left hander (90 degrees plus a little). Plus a few less substantial wiggles.

65sec long or short track?!?

if its long track thats not a bad time at all... if its short track you have problems :P

Give me a break (please). :D

It was cold, it was wet, I was tired, out of practice and err, um refer to the driver's book of excuses for further info..

Oh and it was the long track and none of the other AWD's managed to go any quicker on the day. :rofl:

Edited by djr81

Only problem with that is that after a cool down lap, the surface temperature from an infra-red reading isn't the best. By that time, the heat has spread through the tyre and the results aren't 100% accurate. You really need a probe to get the carcass temp at 3 points across the tyre, and even then the cool down lap dilutes the results a bit.

Now if you could get that image as a real-time video, that would be awesome to see. :(

if we are serious and checking tyre temps and pressures there is no cool down lap. warm up lap, on it lap, on it lap, into pits, quick as possible measurements then back out for cool down/warm up lap again. no point wasting 2 minutes wrecking the data toodling around on a cooling lap. :) I'm sure richard did the same.

I assume the pictures are taken from the rear of the tyre and the slow down lap wasn't all that slow.

As Showza posted above skin temperature isn't always a good indicator, you need to get below the surface to get a true view. That said, it's a place to start the thinking.

The LHS tyres look pretty good, reasonably even.

The RHS tyres shows too much camber, as you would expect from a clockwise circuit.

The LHS front maybe needs a little more pressure, maybe 1 lb

Both of the RHS tyres need more pressure, maybe 2 lbs.

At Wannaroo we always run less camber on the RHS than the LHS in an attempt to get more of the load onto the inside tyres. Share the traction around for cornering. Plus it helps under brakes with less camber on the inside tyre. As well as staggered camber we also run staggered tyre pressure (as I mentioned above).

Gotta go, Eastern Creek this weekend and I have lots of cars running.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...