Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had iridiums in my 33 when i got it, they were in there for 20,000kms and were stuffed. put in coppers and they were still fine after 10,000kms. so the reason why iridiums aren't any good is because they are a waste of money.

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Iridiums are also not ment to be gapped as it damages the end of them. Since most are 1.1 they tend to missfire on high boost applications, hence why most of us run a pre .8 gap on coppers.

y is every1 so against T bolt clamps, they hold on hydraulic hoses on mining equipment fine with 1000+psi im sure they can hold 20psi

n id also like the hear why iridium plugs are no good, i was thinking of getting a set coz arn't coppers only good for like 10,000 clicks?

If you think the iridi's will last 100,000 like they claim - forget that idea.

In a stock application, ye probably, but in a modified one with extra boost - unlikely.

Why pay $120 for a set of plugs that can foul as easy as coppers anything can foul them really, eg: your fuel reg dies, there goes $120 in plugs.

And say thats only 15,000km's into the set, all of a sudden the coppers are worth their price because you change them frequently.

Plugs are like an oil filter, in a modified application change them often, this is a family magna your talking about.

whole heartedly agree...

my last set of coppers were pulled out after 20,000 just for good measure and were still running fine at the time. and that's with 300 very abused rwkw...

the set before that lasted just as long

and the set before that were iridi's and were thrown out after 5,000 odd

Then they most likely are platinums, not iridiums. Not many places keep BKR7EIX in a .8 in stock (atleast that's what i find), most keep the BKR7EIX-11.

EDIT: I just checked back a page and you said PFR7B, yep Platinums.

Edited by PM-R33

yes they come in both 0.8mm gap as well as 1.1, but if you get the 1.1 (which is the factory specified gap for rb motors) they recommend not changing the gap down to 0.8 with the iridiums as it can damage them.

awsome they were the answers i was looking for, so looks like im gna get a set of coppers. while we're on the topic of plugs, what part number do i need or what heatrange should i get and what should i gap it too. they're going on a usual sub 200rwkw rb25 running 10-12psi, im also gonna be changing to splitfires the same time as the spark plugs go in.

cheers

....

power is a simple calculation of

air + fuel + spark + compression = power

whats the tune like?

whats does the AFR look like on max load?

how is the ignition timing tuned?

whats base idle timing ? check it with a timing light?

got it booked in for monday to be seen by another tuner and have this issue diagnosed.

i dont think the turbo is out of puff as ive seen several other rb25's make atleast 270...and im finding it hard to make just up to 245-250rwkw at anything over 14psi.

plus im getting a massive pressure drop without any detonation...so how can it be producing hot air???

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline

found my problem (fingers crossed)

leaking exhaust gas out of a 10mm bolt hole kinda like a little wastegate that constantly open

which would explain why it would hit 18psi then come back down to 15psi

I think its going to go back into the car with a .82 external gate setup now its all out

also i found a crack at the wastegate hole .I dont think that would have been helping my situation either

post-18618-1249705038_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...