Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

For me protection qualities far outweigh a few kw...

in any case the variables could not be kept constant enough not to allow for slight variations...diff oil temp,gearbox oil temp,boost pressure,ambient air temp,the list goes on...vince is a nice bloke but this test means sh1t to me .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4703417
Share on other sites

Not really into it cos they missed a few things like whether they warmed the cars up to operating temp e.g 80+ degrees for the oil and the rpms can never be accurate as your controlling them by foot so each run could be up to 100rpm off.

im glad motul did well though as thats the brand im sticking with and i run castrol edge in my beema.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4704396
Share on other sites

i ran Repsol sythetic oil in my w/shop for over 5 years, also run it in my go-karts, have found it to be excellent. At the end of the day people all have their favourite, just make sure when you buy an engine oil that it has been API tested which is an independent testing proceedure that tests that the oil meets or exceeds the specs specified. Alot of oils on the shelf at your local auto part store have not had this testing, therefore might not meet the specs specified....it is a round stamp on the back of the container that will have API SJ/SL for example. It costs the oil company a pretty penny to have this testing, probably why they all dont do it. Also dont mix up oil grade with oil viscosity which is a common mistake. Running the incorrect viscosity oil could see you loose performance. while the incorrect grade could cause damage and or blockages in late model common rail diesels.

im not surprised the Castrol performed poorly. Castrol was a swear word in my shop lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4704629
Share on other sites

I did a similar test on an STI once but never released it because the the STI was so in-consistant due to the " self learning" ECU it has.

Even with identical oil temp, air temps and same oil, it couldnt even do a back to back run that was similar ( it had a front mount so heat soak wasnt an issue)

Thats why I dont pay too much attention to these sort of tests. i look at oil pressure under various circumstances, engine wear and the oils condition after track days etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4704751
Share on other sites

These tests are pretty useless, as has been said there are way too many variables that can't be controlled - one of the less obvious (but most impacting) variables being the climate / ambient temperature of the place where your car is driven/stored. Start up and cool down is where a great deal of engine wear occurs.

I use GW Sougi 6000 myself, but I sell the stuff so that's only natural :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4704838
Share on other sites

aside from the question mark of the fan being much closer in the nulon test, i'd also want a separate test of each oil run for 5,000km in normal driving and then a UOA done on it. I care more about protecting my engine than 5kw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4705431
Share on other sites

What up.

I should be here more, I'm a GTR fan that got lost and bought 3 Silvias

but you love them all :)

ive seen your ns sig

something along the lines of

my family is complete s13 daily, jet200 track and s15 missus car
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278212-top-5-oil-test/#findComment-4706763
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...