Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes it does. If you want to flog the guts out of ANY vehicle, it has to be built to suit your bent.

I drive pretty hard on occasions. But there is a big (mental) difference between a hard (on) and a flog.

Actually, I didn't flog the guts out of my M35.

My 9.3km/L fuel average over 40,000kms before my turbo let go can attest to that.

Before I bought it? Who knows.

I do find it odd (and somewhat upsetting) that more and more M35 turbos are shedding their ceramic exhaust wheel...

Stupid $50, PCV valve can stuff up the running of a car so much and stupid Nissan mechanics tell you that there is nothing wrong when the car idles at 800rpm instead of 650rpm as the sticker under the bonnet specifies.

Thank god for a helpful dealer and another forum member who had a similar problem who helped me work it out.

I must respond :P

The brakes are as-per C34 Laurel Sedan, but I agree that with the wagon platform, they should be bigger.

The Series 1 has an oil cooler (adjacent the filter), doesn't the series 2 have the same setup?

And, The S1 trans cooler is a bit piss-weak, but I'm sure it's fine in Japan :)

yeah it has that oil to water cooler . the gt-t has a factory oil to air cooler in front of the radiator for the engine (being the same motor but in a higher state of tune from the factory in the stagea ). i want one . mine has no trans cooler . ( manual )

and yeah the stagea is pretty good on the whole just some details need addressing

Which is more reliable: C34 or M35? RB or V?

Too general a question to answer fairly. The M35 runs higher boost so more likely to blow a turbo (since the turbo uses the same or similar materials and seems to carry the same limitations). Some people claim their M35 runs as high as 15psi without modifications...something weird going on there.

Other than that the VQ engine is probably a better designed engine than the RB (I really dont know but its won more awards for what its worth). As for reliability, based on personal experience, having owned a C34 s2 for 2 years and now a M35 for nearly 1 year:

* The C34 had wrecked rear suspension when I bought it (fixed under dealer stat warranty), and the turbo died on it, plus cracked exhaust manifold. As yet I've not heard of M35's having the cracked exhaust manifold problem - that seems to be a RB thing.

* After nearly 1 year the M35 has no mechanical problems at all. It did have a dirty throttle body but any turbo car would be the same. Once cleaned it ran beautifully.

They also fixed the passenger mirror rust spot on the M35, pretty much every C34 has that one. We're splitting hairs here though.

Everyone's experiences are different which makes it very difficult to compare reliability. The M35 seems to have issues with the turbo & boost, and the C34 has issues with the exhaust manifold cracking, and the turbo isn't exactly its strong point either.

As for the BAD bits:

C34 (s2): Auto takes too long to shift gears (makes tiptronic useless). Shift kit made it PERFECT though. Should've had more power out of the factory, and 17" wheels.

M35: Auto takes far too long to shift gears...it masks the power delivery potential of the awesome VQ25DET. Wife wont let me buy shift kit (yeah I know thats not the stagea's fault)... :P

Bad bits for me

- stanadrd front strut bar gets in the way of a service, also all the extra pipes for emissions just makes a pain

- could have used better material for the rear seat levers in the tailgate section (one of mine were already broken when i got it and CBF replacing it)

- drivers seat position (is it me or is the driver seat sit higher than the passenger seat (no matter what I still hit the roof anyways - joys of being 194cm tall)

- triptronic shift lag (yes it can be cured with a shift kit) - but I don't think Nissan were thinking about people race shifting their Stagea's

- lack of a dimmer switch

and my major gripe

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Bad bits for me

and my major gripe

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Would also like to know where to get them lol, 2 of mine are out.

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Theirs a Navara- very popular dash globe (can get them from repco) that is around the same size that you buy and pull apart for the globe and wire it into the stock holder. Its easy as literally like a one minute job.

Informed chefstagea of this the other day and he did his 260 on the weekend :starwars: Im unsure of the part number but I think if we are lucky he will still have the receipt.

The globe is same sort of size as stock and base of it is white.

i cant fkn believe no one has mentioned the farking reversing alarm that is only audible inside the car! Made me want to headbut the dash everytime i heard it :merli:

I second that. The japs and their chimes!

What is the best way to get rid of it?

Also, WTF with the hydraulic hand brake?

hahahaha, why do you hate it so much? i personally love it! it could be a little quieter, but it's great! i've even kept it in my s13 :merli:

the "keys in the ignition" chime i could do without though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...