Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking to update from T04Z to T51SPL..

With fully stripped chassis and with slicks how low time will I do with my car?

Can I will do 9.0sec? Or it is too low for this power? What power I need for 9.0?

I did 11.2sec with very bad 60foot 1.75 and with terminal 134mph with t04z 30psi and with full street interior.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281895-1000hp-rb26-s13-what-time-can-do/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for your reply!

Ok sure I will learn to drive it better but the t04z power can put me at 9's as you said... But can do very low 9?

I don't think so :P

So I am thinking to put larger injectors, t51 spl and new exhaust that will exit at front fender side.

Do you think that if I will do this setup I can do very low 9sec?

Something else do you think that I need?

I will put also full rollcage, front runners and I will strip everything of the car.

Weight of your car would be nice... As far as i can gather a stock s13 with engine/gearbox conversion of a stock rb26 would weigh about 1250kg compared to just 1170kg of a stock sr20det s13. Then i suppose you can add on some more weight for a larger turbo setup, more weight for fuel (not counted in dry curb weight) and then with any sense take some weight off because you would have removed HICAS on a drag car... right?

lets say your car weighs 1250kg anyway for arguments sake....

On a weight vs Horsepower @ wheels calculation you would be in the 8.2s range... with 1000hp @ wheels

Then take in to account the traction on your previous efforts and your terrible vehicle control and try and finish without hitting someone else would be a good goal. If i were you id leave your turbo setup as is and get the best out of that.

With that weight and lots of traction and good control you could get a 9 with around 600hp @ wheels according to the calculator which is not perfect but...

Edited by GT-RZ

Also the car will full stripped as now will be drag car..

With 600whp that sure I have now I am not sure if I can do so low as you say..... :P

I did 11.2 with 1.75 60foot!

Ok sure I cannot do better launch than 1.5 with et streets!!!!! In an other race I did 1.5 in a decent dragstrip!

So how much better than 11.2 with 1.5 launch?? I was thinking that I can do 10.5 at best!

My terminal I think that it is good... 134mph!

I will prepare a new s13 chassis for drag car and I will stay with my setup for some races... but I don't think that I can go neighter for high 9!!

And I want very low 9 :)

T51 SPL can make 1000hp flywheel!

With 850whp what time gives your calculation with 1250kg?

I dont think the part that you have installed between the steering wheel and the seat can run a 9. hell, it cant safely run an 11.

forget about the bigger turbo, and focus on upgrading that.

i think your should turn the boost down to say 20psi, sort out the chassis, sort out ur driving! sort out the tune. get the thing running consistantly and safely.

once this has been done then start to increase the boost.

then and only then, once you have lots of experience with your current set up should you even consider moving to a larger turbo.

1250kg with 850hp @ wheels is 8.6s

Keep in mind these are examples and theoretical outcomes given perfect runs and perfect grip... Not to mention you should be adding the weight of yourself in to the equation.

Here is the online calculator http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html

You can crunch the numbers yourself and take in to account traction loss etc but it requires effort and that calculator does not. have fun.

PS: when you get your car tuned next get them to weigh it with you inside and everything else you will race with, then you know.

The bloke has an RB26 powered s13, he took it to the strip (which was not perfectly prepared, granted) and he started to get fairly untidy around mid-track.

Rather than back off for his own safety and that of the S2000 driver in the left-hand lane, he ploughed on and end up swerving badly into the other lane (possibly clipped the s2000) and caused the S2000 driver to hit the wall = epic fail.

A perfect example of plenty of cash, plenty of power but no friggin brains.

I ask how to make 9sec! I have mam and dad to protect me to don't kill anyone or to kill myself!

Jesus it was just accident!

Put the car away until you grow up mate- Mum and Dad shouldn't have anything to do with this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...