Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i've got a S1 r33 gts-t here for wrecking in Sydney. It's been hit on the front so most of the front end panels are nackered, but everything else is for sale! Located in Sydney

It's a White(QM1) 5sp manual R33 skyline with approx 106,000 ks

Engine - rb25det, 106,xxx ks. Good compression - approx 150-155psi on each cyl

$1300ono for bare motor + turbo

Still have the loom, coilpacks, and accesories too, PM to discuss price!

post-35556-1250766471_thumb.jpg

5sp gearbox, good condition, no problems with shifting, low k's. Includes shifter, crossmember, slave cylinder - $1300

16" R33 stockies - $200

Pretty good condition. Fronts have about 35% left, rears are on the tread markers

post-35556-1250766590_thumb.jpg

Sunroof, good condition - $200

Includes glass+mechanism, wiring, control unit, roof lining

post-35556-1250766564_thumb.jpg

Coil cover - $50

S1 AFM (green sticker) - $100

ECU (manual) - $80

Engine clutch fan - $60

washer bottle - $20

radiator overflow bottle - $20

fuse box cover - $20

3" exhaust with Sheepdog muffler (Jasma stamped) - $200

Stock cat converter - $40

Stock dump & front pipe $50

charcoal canister - $30

Rubber intake pipe - $20

Metal BOV recirculation pipes - $20

Crossover pipe + Stock BOV - $50

post-35556-1250766740_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250766680_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250766624_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250766655_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250766698_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767066_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768526_thumb.jpg

Front hubs - $80 each

Front calipers - $280/pair

Front lower control arm, passenger side - $70

Used rotors - $50/pair

Rear GAB damper adjustable shocks+springs - $200/pair

Rear hubs - $160/pair

Rear calipers - $150/pair

Rear lower control arms- $50 each

Handbrakes + cables - $160/pair

stock diff (4.11), good condition - $200

Driveshafts - $75 pair

post-35556-1250766997_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767013_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767037_thumb.jpg

Instrument cluster - $120

Front seats, some wear - $100/pair

Rear seats, lavish condition - $70

Drv window control box (s1) - $45

DIN pocket - $20

Ashtray - $25

Random dash peices - $offers?

Drivers side switch surround, some light scratches near the handle - offers?

Drivers side window switch (s1) - $90

Drivers side window motor - $80

S1 door trims - $80/pair

Centre console - $60

seatbelts & buckles, full set, will seperate - $80

rear view mirror - $15

electric aerial $60

Boot lining set - $70

Ignition barrel + key + door barrels - $100

post-35556-1250767157_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767854_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767888_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767947_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250767976_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768121_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768362_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768399_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1250768421_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768462_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768484_thumb.jpg post-35556-1250768510_thumb.jpg

I can post pretty much everything, so PM me if youre after anything here or any other random parts that arent listed!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284326-wrecking-white-s1-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey phatlav...how much for the coilpacks if your willing to seperate? Also keen on boot lining and (if its complete) and the clutch fan...

cheers

yo, looks like coilpacks are sold pending payment at the moment. Pm sent

Anyone know if the whole front dash is compatible with a gtr? If yes, I would like a price delivered to Brisbane please. Thank you

yep the dash pad will fit a GTR. pretty expensive to send it up there though.. probably looking at like 300 posted. Pm me if interested

how much for dash surround and centre console?

Sorry I don't have the dash surround, i have the centre console though - $60

Still got the stock bov?

If so shotgun.. pm sent

yep, PM sent

Hi, Thanks for the quick PM RE: Wing Mirrors. Unfortunately I can't reply to it because I don't have at least 10 posts up!

How much for postage to Melb? Can you put your email addy in the next PM and I'll shoot you a message.

Thanks -Tom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...