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There's something I always hate, having to topup unknown existing coolant risking a reaction between the 2.

The best you can do is Genuine Nissan Long-Life Coolant (LLC), from a Nissan dealership. 1 litre of concentrate cost $10-$15 and makes 2-3litres (depending on a 50:50 or 66:33 mix of water:concentrate).

The cheaper option is Nulon concentrate that meats the Nissan specification (Nissan LLC I think is the technical name)

get the Nulon Pre-Mixed (green) coolant ..I paid $20 per 5l canister just the other day. Don't just top up.

If you've got an hour or 2 I'd highly recommend taking out the factory radiator and hosing the fins down (carefully) mine was completely blocked with bugs and dirt.

Flush the system, and use genuine Nissan LLC. But don't mix it stronger than 60:40.

If you use the genuine stuff, and change it every couple of years, the alloy bits won't corrode, simple as that.

  • 7 months later...
Hi Guys, just bought GT-T R34 pretty much stock overall. Noticed the coolant is way below the low line...is there something you guys recommend and from where I can get it or can I pick up anything from the shelf.

Thanks

Hey guy any chance you would know how many litres an r34 gtt would hold as im replacing the radiator and dont know whether to buy the 5ltr LLC ($62) or a couple of 1litre ones at $16 each

Its inbetween 7-8L (cant remember) you dont need 5L because you have too mix is with demineralised water. I suggest 4L or less of LLC and the rest demineralised water too get a 50\50 min or less. To much coolant and you wont be helping your engine cool at all.

Edited by central coast person

it takes 9 litres for the whole system but you will struggle to get even 3l in there unless you properly flush the whole cooling system (there's a few threads about that too) Don't forget to bleed the air.

  • 14 years later...

I think you'll find that with modified cars, the radiator has to come out more often than once every 2 years, meaning this generally gets cycled pretty well lol.

If I had a car that had been sitting for 5+ years I'd probably flush the coolant. Coolant really shouldn't go off. It's main purpose is to inhibit rust and stop the whole thing from freezing, the latter not really being an issue here.

6 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I think you'll find that with modified cars, the radiator has to come out more often than once every 2 years, meaning this generally gets cycled pretty well lol.

If I had a car that had been sitting for 5+ years I'd probably flush the coolant. Coolant really shouldn't go off. It's main purpose is to inhibit rust and stop the whole thing from freezing, the latter not really being an issue here.

Ah ok. I put in a new radiator previously and flushed the coolant out at the same time but it is getting to that 2 year mark. My car is pretty much a daily driver in a sense but haven't put heaps of km on it.

Edited by silviaz

The only other time I changed it is when I noticed it had become discoloured after a few track days (it was .. yellowish). So I drained and refilled the rad. 

think most people are in this situation. It's not like the car ran any cooler after I changed the coolant either. I'm gonna go with "If it makes you feel better, change it!"

  • Like 1
55 minutes ago, silviaz said:

The nissan manual says to change coolant every 2 years. Is this still necessary if you're using coolant like Penrite or nulon which has improved over the years? It says it lasts 500,000km which seems hard to believe lol.

If you fully flushed and filled it's probably good for 5 years. I would not push it any further than that. Generally speaking coolant is more by time than by mileage. Rust wants to happen whether you're driving it 50,000 km or 80,000 km.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 6 months later...

What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.

On 17/08/2025 at 5:03 AM, silviaz said:

What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.

Any local hydraulic supply store should have them. If in a pinch, you could also save your old copper washers by annealing them. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, TurboTapin said:

Any local hydraulic supply store should have them. If in a pinch, you could also save your old copper washers by annealing them. 

Thanks for that! I did a quick Google search looked up some of hydaulic stores and didn't see it listed on the website, I'll give them a ring. Also found out later that I can buy 2 oem bleeder bolts for 10 bux and come with the washer which I might do so I don't waste the money it costs in petrol to find 2 washers (already did that lol).

The old copper washes look in good nick, I drove it after taking it off and putting it back on and didn't see any 


Part number here for reference if anyone needs: 14053-42L0A

 

Edited by silviaz

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