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Nice brake kit!... drooooool

those 2500's will be fine, better pad for the street IMO... the 3000's just chew up your rotors when cold... you won't run out of braking with that setup:)

you don't need to learn to drive, you have a GTR, just point it where you want to go and step on the loud pedal! ;) ... best place to start would be on the Deca skid pan and I'm sure there are a bunch of people there who would love a close look at the car... it would be a weapon around the cones with its quick response

Pictorial of more HKS goodness...Hmmm.... 2.8L Step 2 capacity upgrade kit rated 588kw:

Forged Piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating):

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Note the valve relief pre-machined on the piston top

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H cross section connecting rods:

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Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft:

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Sorry, I did not unwrap the crankshaft for some reason.

The fully balanced crankshaft makes the engine feel much smoother at high rpms, even at idle the engine noise and vibration is minimal.

Nice rod design. I like the extra material where the mating surfaces are between the rod and bearing cap. Makes for less material distortion to push the bearings out of round when the bolts are torqued to spec.

Are you aiming for over 500kw? Just wondering why you went for the step 2 pistons with the nickel coating. Having a ceramic coating instead would have been fine for less power and have been more streetable due to less heat transfer to the oil.

I'd like to see some before and after proof of the V-Cam system working (i.e. actually tuned correctly)... I'm in very close contact with the HKS tuner from Sydney and it's not just as simple as what you've put down.

Nice build.

If you are scared of nailing the loud pedal then you really need to take it to a place like Sandown and open the taps in the thing....just remember the middle pedal and get the thing slowed down as i am guessin the thing will be a bullet.

LOL, makes me laugh that Adam has a similar engine in a rwd GTSt....MADNESS!!!!!

GTRNUR Posted Yesterday, 11:22 PM

Are you aiming for over 500kw? Just wondering why you went for the step 2 pistons with the nickel coating. Having a ceramic coating instead would have been fine for less power and have been more streetable due to less heat transfer to the oil.

Hi GTRNUR,

I am aiming for good low end response rather than peak power, that's why a pair of Garrett's 2860-5s have been chosen rather than a big single banger. I am aiming for over 400rwKw.

I went for Step 2 because that's what Beno recommended. I know its a lame explanation. But every time I deviated from his recommendation I end up getting compromised result.

Roy Posted Today, 02:08 PM

Nice build.

If you are scared of nailing the loud pedal then you really need to take it to a place like Sandown and open the taps in the thing....just remember the middle pedal and get the thing slowed down as i am guessin the thing will be a bullet.

Thank Roy.

Sandown is definitely on agenda, maybe after a run or two at the drag strip first. I am still learning to launch the car properly. The problem is its not the thing to practice on public roads!

Cheers

Matt

I am aiming for good low end response rather than peak power, that's why a pair of Garrett's 2860-5s have been chosen rather than a big single banger. I am aiming for over 400rwKw.

I went for Step 2 because that's what Beno recommended. I know its a lame explanation. But every time I deviated from his recommendation I end up getting compromised result.

Not at all. The smartest thing you can do is put your trust in a builder with the skills of Ben at Racepace. Im sure he has his reasons for suggesting the step 2 kit. Perhaps for a simple a reason as planning for the future, or maybe the valve pockets accomodate more valve lift with the v-cam setup.

How long till the block machining and assembly starts? Are you intending to use your factory engine block or are you building up the RB28 in another N1 block?

Thanks for sharing,

Ian

Hey Ian,

Actually the build is all complete! :D This is more like a retrospective build thread. I guess I am keeping everyone in suspense.

The original NUR engine was kept as a long block and a brand new N1 block was purchased and machined.

Cheers

Matt

Ah... i suspected as much. That explains your comment about how scary fast it is a lot better. If it were that way before you undertook these changes you'd probably never drive the car after the build was finished.

Glad you kept the original engine intact as well.

Thanks for comments guys.

Let's showcase more parts:

Garretts GT 2860R - 707160-5 goodness:

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Let's see how much boost these puppies can generate!

Nismo Twin plate super coppermix clutch, rated at 640ps:

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I don't know why I did not take it out of the plastic bag for a decent photo :P

Nismo AFM:

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Tomei Oil Pump:

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Sard 700cc injectors:

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So, that's pretty much a wrap up of all the parts for engine rebuild. Note absence of upgraded fuel pump, regulators, boost controller, fuel rail etc., as the stock items are considered to be good enough. Oh, actually I forgot the new N1 block, which I don't have any photos as the engine block was sent straight to machine shop.

wow this is an impressive car! Congratulations on an exceptional build so far.

Think you need the nismo's on there though, but after seeing the nismo's next to the 19" te37's they look small so time for some 19x10.5 lmgt4's...

Do you mind if i ask what you do? Feel free to tell me to bugger off though!

cheers, Tim

Found a photo of the new N1 block mounted on an engine stand:

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And out with the 'old' NUR engine:

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If there is anyone interested in a genuine NUR long block with low mileage, then please pm me.

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