Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what kind of money is he asking? they are wanted a bit here but they are also cheap here compared to the cost of importing one including freight.

GT - I have a friend with a 4.8 Patrol engine/box that he wants to offload. Is there a market for these over there?

hahahaa cheers mate! :):)

ohhhh btw... good news everyone!! "dr farnsworth voice"

The V8 SUPERCARS teams left a whole lot of barrels of E85 at Yas Island circuit, my boss works there and he snapped them up for a good price!

Bring on e85 tuning again! hahahaa its been more then 2 years since ive played with the stuff, good to know the old thread is still churning away! might come in handy!

Does the fuel go off in barrels quickly? the race was in January.

You know its taken me 2 years to actually read this thread , but it is by far the most interesting thread on this forum..

Good on ya bloke :thumbsup:

Sooooo.. Guys

Back to the diff ratio thing. Now i am 1000000% sure this diff is something like 3.4:1 ratio.

There is a drift day tomorrow and i wanted to tune the car again, first time the r32 was on the dyno with the RB30....

After i tuned it and made my first power run in 4th gear i noticed the Dyno vibrating like hell, this only ever happened before when I was removing road speeds from lexus's and tundras etc etc and the wheels were spinning over 250km/h

My right hand dyno man comes up to me and said "264 km/h" WTF? watched the dyno the next run and sure thing, 265km/h in 4th gear. This is with my original RB25DET standard transmission i ran in GLT-00Y the whole time in Australia and when I ran the 10.8 @ 135mph.

First gear goes up to 80km/h and second gear is about 140km/h, did not bother with third.

So no drifting, do not think its a good idea to go tomorrow and slide on that track with my hands and legs tied together in this LHD Skyline

What is this diff out of? Guram from Georgia said his car is the same, R32 GTR and my rear end is supposedly from a R32 GTR.

any ideas? i want to change it back or just sell the car and get a RHD car for drifting.

to backup my theory, i went to the drifting today, and could not drift again, soo i tried first year and it was not spinning so bad, it was spinning so bad not because its LHD its because when i was spinning the wheels they were spinning at 130+ km/h

I tried to snap it from 1st to second a few times and nearly lost it every time. its nuts! Had a ball though!! we were drifting on the Yas Marina F1 track!!! was awesome!

yeah its the same, but this car, the brake pedal and clutch were like 2cm's appart! i had to do some serious bending to the clutch pedal and its still not where id like it.

its just awkward... i started to get used to it a little when on the YAS track

Would be weird as hell drifting a LHD. Is the pedal arrange the same as RHD?

Hey GT off topic buy I just read an article in the paper about Ferrari world, this huge red indoor amusement park based on everything Ferrari!

Have you had a chance to visit it?? Looks insane

its in YAS, next to the F1 track and the Drag strip. been outside of it but never bothered to enter. if it was Skyline world then i would have been in there in a flash =)

Apparently one of the Sheikh's here organised it, Abu Dhabi City purchased 5% of Ferrari, then they made Ferrari World.

i will visit sometime

hey mate, 32 GTR is 100% 4.111:1. if you have a 3.4:1 then you need to get rid of it. providing your car really does have a GTR diff then it should be no problem to re-fit the 4.111:1 crown wheel and pinion. if you need help getting one let me know. they are not expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...