Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

best pod filters we have found so far from our dyno testing is apexi ones

we only lost 2kw on a 435kw rb28dett gtr,

samota is rubbish, one car lost 15kw with one. average is 5-10kw

k&N is alright, just depends on how oiled and how dirty it is.

i havn't done any tests with the foam style hks pod filters

Go with what u know, as long as u maintain them, thats more important. I personally use k+n but thats just me. Have had no issues with them at all and easy to clean, Never use'd oil either.... no need. But then again my thats just me?? :)

Brent

Go with what u know, as long as u maintain them, thats more important. I personally use k+n but thats just me. Have had no issues with them at all and easy to clean, Never use'd oil either.... no need. But then again my thats just me?? :)

Brent

a

If your talking about the material, HPI has this ranking system;

1: Metal Mesh filters= excellent airflow, but only filters bigger particles. 2nd best intake method apart from NO FILTER.

2. Oiled= Good airflow, will pick up anything. DONT OVER OIL !!

3. Unoiled/paper= Good allrounder

4. Foam= One of the worst filtration systems . BUT if replaced at common intervals, will do a great job. Beware of loose chunks of foam.

Best airflow= metal mesh

Best filtration= Oiled filters.

K & N are a good run of the mill filter.

Key is to change it often. My cai after a while, kind of rips a hole through the bottom of the filter :P.

Edited by r33cruiser
Hey I'm looking at putting new filters on my 32 gtr. It already has pod filters on but they have seen better days. What are the best ones to put on?

Have you tried cleaning your pods?

Just buy the K&N cleaning kit or VHT make a air filter cleaner spray.

Clean it, dry it and bolt it back on.

APexi are good or HKS.

3A Racing pods you can buy from Auto Barn or Super Cheap Autos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...