Jump to content
SAU Community

Jacking Up Ur Car

kikutaknight

By kikutaknight,
in WA Wasteland

 Share

Recommended Posts

kikutaknight Enthusiast

kikutaknight

Posted
Posted

I've seen pictures of people with their cars jacked up two wheels at a time with the jack somewhere in the middle...

also cars jacked up from somewhere other than that little bit on the side made for those dodgey little car jacks.

i've looked around on the bottom of my car but can't figure out exactly where people are putting these jacks. can anyone upload pictures or something for me? :D 

would be appreciated...zorz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289799-jacking-up-ur-car/
Share on other sites
260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
I've seen pictures of people with their cars jacked up two wheels at a time with the jack somewhere in the middle...

also cars jacked up from somewhere other than that little bit on the side made for those dodgey little car jacks.

i've looked around on the bottom of my car but can't figure out exactly where people are putting these jacks. can anyone upload pictures or something for me? :P 

would be appreciated...zorz.

Check out this thread. http://www.ehow.com/video_4941952_put-jack...er-vehicle.html

Stay safe.

GW

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

That vid misses quite a few vital safety aspects, like making sure the non-raised wheels are chocked properly for one...

Firstly, never ever ever try and use a sill jack on any other part of the car other than the proper jacking points. As Bard said, a road car is not strong enough to do this and you will either destroy the jack or your car. Heck, if your lucky, maybe even both!

If you want the front lifted then use the centre of the cross member - not the sump! Always use jack stands and try to keep them as close to the suspension pick up points as practicle as possible. The control arms used in that vid are a good idea, although I cant say using the edge of them is that bright. Personally I would use a bit of wood between the jack stand and the control arm (steel on steel is asking for trouble IMO) then you can use the whole control arm not just the edge.

For the rear, try putting the jack under the diff housing. Just be aware that the car will be VERY unstable as it is being jacked and can rock from side to side.

It should go without saying that safety should always come first. Never get under a car that is supported by a jack, always make sure the car is on level ground before raising it at all, and try to keep bystanders right the f**k away. One other person as a spotter is a good idea, but that should be it. Always fully chock any wheels that are to remain on the ground. Also, try not to open any doors on a car that is supported by a jack. Especially on 2 door cars, this can really upset the balance of the vehicle. Lastly, as I said before, its always a good idea to use wood between any steel jack or jack stands and the car. Apart from adding a "crush" factor that helps with stability, the friction coefficient is much higher making it more stable.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted

+3 for the diff or x-member/rad support :laugh:

also i use the OEM jack on one of the sides so if a stand does fail the car wont fall all the way 2 the ground.

also never use bricks 2 suport a car i made that mistake once and i will never do that again :)

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

spare wheels and tyres are really good for getting a car up off the ground, if your doing something that doesnt require removing any of the wheels you can simply jack it up via the diff/xmember and chuck a spare wheel and tyre under each wheel, 2 if you need to go really high. if the wheels need to come off you can put the wheels and tyres under the chassis rails, make sure you have the car sitting on 4 points before you get under there and dont have the front supports too far back, the motor is the heaviest part.

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted

car ramps are good 4 doing work on a car when u don't need 2 take off the wheels and also there is no ramp solution 4 raising the whole car unless u make some.

4 me im restricted when it comes 2 space so im stuck with a trolly jack and axle stands (modified 4 skyline)

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted
with the height of the average skyline ramps would need to be about 8 feet long to be much good to ya

unless you remove the front bar or something????????

well all u do is wedge a thick bit of wood in there to extend the length

 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...