Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

skyline1999

If there was no play in the bearings and they spun ok with no real noise or notchiness then they should be fine.

A lot of mechanics and other cars recommend those bearings be replaced at 200k kms interval.

At 100k I did the tensioner and idler since I got them at a good price. The water pump seemed fine, no play, no weeps from the weep hole so I took the risk. 170k km no issue but it isn't a bad idea to do it all at the same time.

I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor, ie, snap a belt, no issues except for motor stoppping...

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Explain how you guys smash valves? Or is teh RB20 an interference motor?

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

I replaced my belt the other day, along with the idler and tensioner. Car had done 100,200km's. I got a Dayco timing belt kit which included everything just mentioned, plus cam and crank seals, however i didnt fit these.

I didnt replace my water pump at the same time, i hope that holds up!

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

Well i can tell you that is a load of shit :D

The RB20 i had was behind an auto

I can't see what transmission has to do with it anyway.

Either way, tensioner snapped - minced the valves, its common knowledge that's what happens.

So NO - you should change them @ 100k, im pretty certain Nissan advise this as well

I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor.

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Mate, have no idea what you did but at TDC if you rotate you cams 360degrees, valves will hit.

NEVER do cam work with the crank at TDC.

How could you possibly know without taking them apart?

as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

Doesn't mean a thing I'm afraid :)

Just because they don't make noise and/or have play does not mean it wont develop well before 200,000.

And if it suddenly just lets go (as they do), you'll find out just how wrong such an assumption would be :)

I have been lucky twice now! I'm about to do my 2nd timing belt in 20 000k. Did the first one a few years ago at 130k because the idler siezed. I didn't know what the previous owner had done so i replaced belt, idler and tensioner. Now the tensioner has gone again so it's all being replaced again. No damage either time!

My standard belt is coming up to or has passed 130 000kms. Pretty sure it's around that.

Next time it's started for more then 30 seconds it will be driving to the mechs and will have the timeing belt replaced, among other things.

To be honest, I remember looking at the timing belt ages ago and it looked like shit... although, that could have been the ac belt, as the bearing in the tensioner for that seized, twice, and minced the belt...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...