Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone!

This is my first post here and i have gone over some of the posts on this forum and they are pretty informative. SO i need your help, my friend has a 1997 Nissan Stagea WGNC34 Wagon and wants to sell it. I was thinking of buying it and taking it back to my Country, BAHRAIN. Now we are LHD and the Stagea is RHD. I was wondering if anyone know of any LHD conversion kits for the Stagea. If you guys have any ideas please post em up as i really like this car and want to buy it.

Cheers guys and gals.

Ejaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290716-stagea-rhd-to-lhd-conversion/
Share on other sites

I think that would be one big custom job. The Stagea was a JDM-only car, with no export markets, let alone foreign manufacture (unlike the Z33/G35 etc)

I agree with Adam - see if you can register a RHD vehicle there and base your decision on that.

hey Guys! Thanks for your replies. The problem is i cant register a RHD car in Bahrain and i dont really want a RHD car. I like the LHD more. I dont think its a big job as people do that all the time in Dubai. Any one else have any suggestions guys? Cheers.

You are dreaming if you think it would be an easy job, maybe some cars, not this one. A lot of time, money and butchering. If you can afford to ship and convert a Stagea then you can probably afford an AUDI RS6. I know which one id have.

Nah, the transfer case is well behind the firewall so it wouldnt be an issue. What would be a major issue would be trying to get a steering box, steering shaft and uni down the exhaust side of an RB25DET.

It "might" be possible with a 2WD Stagea, but you would need to make a completely new firewall at the very least.

People perform LHD to RHD conversions here in Australia all the time too - but not on cars like a late model AWD with all the associated complications. It's generally performed on USDM muscle cars & trucks and there are some conversions which are more successful than others. But in South Australia, LHD cars can be registered (albeit with some restrictions based on age).

If you can find a workshop in Dubai that has done RHD to LHD conversions on R34 Skylines (especially GT-R's), then you should have a chance of success!

Thanks for the replies guys. The thing is i know that in Dubai people do Skyline RHD to LHD swaps every day! There are some crazy people there and it is CHEAP to do it. Guy you have to remember that is Dubai! Labor rates and prices for parts are cheap and this being a NISSAN im sure it shares some parts with other Nissan Models that can be adapted etc.

If i knew the mechanics of this car i wouldnt be here asking for advice from you guys. I usually play with german cars, thats why im just asking for more technical points of view as i dont have the time to get the car on a lift......

Okay then.... just never let me buy a used Dubai spec LHD conversion.... :whistling:

Sounds like another chain drive LHD-RHD steering wheel conversion job... and don't want to know how the brakes will be done.. even using a torsion bar arrangement to leave the master cylinder and servo in the origional position..

As for sharing parts, yes it does, lots of them, but only with other JDM RHD only cars..

But I do admire your spirit..

Thanks for the replies guys. The thing is i know that in Dubai people do Skyline RHD to LHD swaps every day! There are some crazy people there and it is CHEAP to do it. Guy you have to remember that is Dubai! Labor rates and prices for parts are cheap and this being a NISSAN im sure it shares some parts with other Nissan Models that can be adapted etc.

If i knew the mechanics of this car i wouldnt be here asking for advice from you guys. I usually play with german cars, thats why im just asking for more technical points of view as i dont have the time to get the car on a lift......

LOL! Thansk for your reply Bro. No it isnt Chain drive! Its done professionally and everything is like factory. We have a lot of JDM RHD converted to LHD in the Middle-East and you can never tell they were RHD. The Stagea is so cheap in Japan its not funny so i think i might go ahead and buy one once i get back to Bahrain and consult my Master Tech. :whistling: It might be worth me actually trying to do this :D

Any more technical insights?

I have absolutely no advice to offer you, but if you go ahead with this, it would be VERY interesting to see how it was done!

If you do it, please come back and post pics/details: from our perspective, it is a massive feat of engineering to do it correctly...

Good Luck!

Mickey B

Mate i Have done many cars in the last 11 years, so IF i do take this on trust em it'll be done professionally! :whistling: I wouldnt have it anyother way and I will post a full thread with pics etc of the process.

If i get lazy and dont start this i'll just buy myself an E90 M3 2010 :D or an 08 M5

buy a USDM G35 of the same vintage. swap the entire front across. OR find a G35X and use that. it will take two cars to do it.

actually thats for a M35- C34 will be full cusotm.

buy a USDM G35 of the same vintage. swap the entire front across. OR find a G35X and use that. it will take two cars to do it.

actually thats for a M35- C34 will be full cusotm.

OK Thats interesting! So i need an 96 or 97 G35 or G35 X doner for parts? Any more info on this Chris? Thanks Mate.

OK Thats interesting! So i need an 96 or 97 G35 or G35 X doner for parts? Any more info on this Chris? Thanks Mate.

C34 is that era, M35 was newer than that... a 2WD would be possible with custom work.....

Import a G35 from the states, AWD if they make them, then import a matching M35 from japan.

C34 is that era, M35 was newer than that... a 2WD would be possible with custom work.....

Import a G35 from the states, AWD if they make them, then import a matching M35 from japan.

someone got waht I was talking about.

C34 is going to be a full custom job.

at least with a NM35 you have a LHD car to work from. they did make them in 4wd. turbo will be the fun bit on that car.

  • 2 weeks later...

You will learn to drive from the passengerseat (rhd), but if you know somone that can convert the R33GTR there will be no problem with the C34.

There will be some customparts in the interior, but no major issue except the brake servo. You will have to cut some holes in the firewall, but nothing special.

It's just a skyline, but a little better. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...