Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 4WD blocks have both the hole for the 4wd and 2wd sumps, but the 2wd blocks only have the holes for the 2wd sumps. Well that is the case with the 25s at least. i have a C34 engine sitting in the shed as the moment.

EDIT!!

Just read your first post again, this isn't what you were asking.

Edited by D_Stirls

But it helps, thanks! Was hoping i could get the alloy sump off a 4wd RB20 and use a GTR larger sump welded onto it and modded to suit RWD.

Not a big deal if i have to find an AWD RB@) block as well, although i was hoping to use my current block and engine number :thumbsup:

Custom M.S. RB20 sump? It wouldnt be that hard to make up. Than you could design it around your swaybars. Would be more work converting a AWD sump and still having to enlarge that too.

High Energy Sump? They make em for RB20s?

I got an ASR (they make the sumps for High Energy) sump for my 30. The only difference that I know of between an RB20/25 sump and a 30 sump are some bits that stick up in the shallow section of the pan need to be removed for use on a 30..

All the ASR/High Energy RB sumps now have the leading edge chamfer to clear the swaybar in skylines.

Mine isn't in the car yet but I can take some photos if you want :)

Edited by bubba
Please, at the moment i am thinking to jut mod a AWD RB sump as the person doing the build has a proven custom alloy sump that has served many a track RB, both RWD/AWD

Forget it Roy, they don't fit. The 4WD sump bolts up to the wider parts of the 4WD blocks that simply isn't there in on 2WD blocks. I have been using High Energy sumps for ~20 years, never had an oil surge problem at any track, anytime, anywhere in Australia. Don't fool yourself into thinking that a winged 4WD alloy sump is lighter than the steel High Energy one, because it isn't. On the 4WD the sump adds a little (not much) rigidity to the bottom of the block, but that is mostly due to the wide bolt up spacing, which is not an option on a 2WD block. If you really just must have a shiny alloy 4WD sump and desire a miniscule amount of block strengthening then a 4WD sump adaptor would do what you want. But you will loose the block lowering advantage, which IMHO is much more worthwhile.

Cheers

Gary

Well it looks like i will be buying a new block so the build can take place whilst my car is on the street so can just as easily buy a RB20 froma GTS4 as a GTSt.

The High Energy jobbies are uber dollars and have heard/read people with mixed results, so since i know of an RB28 in an R32 GTSt running a 4wd block and modified AWD sump with similar internals to all the sumps off RB26s...it seemed the best place to start.

I think i will rather stick with a std sump then go for High Energy as I am not convinced that i need one...but will have to see what dollars are left over at the end. Plus just got new swybars and know of people having troubles with aftermarket sumps and swaybars, i know that wont be the case with the modded alloy jobbie because of said RB28 powered GTSt

Mate, get the sump from ASR instead of High Energy.

ASR make the High Enery sumps and mine cost $400 less than HE wanted for the same thing.

What bad things have you heard about them? and were they just the extended capacity sumps? or the fully baffled/gated pro-circuit sumps?

As I said above, they now make them to clear the swaybars in our cars.

If its cheap then could be. In SA? It looks as though i have already sourced an engine, (its a runner) If it falls through then a blown motor suits my needs better provided the head isnt warped from overheating or anything silly.

Will look into the ASR Sumps, though can nly find links to their products, not their website

If its cheap then could be. In SA? It looks as though i have already sourced an engine, (its a runner) If it falls through then a blown motor suits my needs better provided the head isnt warped from overheating or anything silly.

Will look into the ASR Sumps, though can nly find links to their products, not their website

its in melb and would be dirt cheap, just pm me if you need his details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...