Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3rd pulls really good on mine too. A few little flat spots due to the ECU crapping itself though.. :D

I find that when giving other cars a run, and if it's a close call in 1st and 2nd, I'll get into 3rd and pull away from them.

I think it's cause the ratio from 2nd to 3rd is close. Eg. 2nd goes to around 100km/h (if you push it) and 3rd only get's you too 140km/h.

DriveBai - once you get a 3inch exhaust and up the boost you'll notice a big improvement :D

J

yeah i got a 3in exhaust from the turbo, hi-flow cat, blled valve.. running 11psi.. but on stock boost its still the same.. also i got an SAFC which may need a retune as i got it tuned before my dump pipe and hi-flow cat..

yeah i heard that 3rd gear is spose to be strong in Skylines but my 3rd gear seems a little lifeless almost like a continuation of 2nd gear like it doesnt pull any harder once i change to 3rd.

why would it pull harder in 3rd than 2nd???

i think when people say 3rd gear is strong for skylines its relative to other cars, not relative to second gear, i.e other cars start slowing in acceleration (non turbos) in 3rd compared to a turbo skyline

my car definitely accelerates harder in second than third.....

Have to agree with that, I find if it is neck and neck or I am tailing a bit, once it hits third it is all over Red Rover (most of the time anyway :) )

I would say that 2nd pulls harder than 3rd, but you have so much range in third compared to 2nd.

I think 3rd is the best gear if you ask me.. but i don't get to use it that often, because it pulls hard from 80km/hr to 140km/hr (/too fast).

You might need a S-AFC or ECU to get the most out of that range thugh.

I find that 4th is the best gear that if say a monaro or WRX or 180sx trys to give you a run i'll just pull car length in 4th but i've got a speed cut. As REDBACK says anything over 10.5 psi and the car gets a slight surge due to std ECU. 10.5psi is the magic number as i've done lots of testing if anyone has questions?(REDBACK)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...