Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Going for a long trip for 3 weeks and the car will be sitting unused. Should there be anything I should worry about? Ill probably just disconnect the battery but can the car comfortably sit for 3 weeks without being started?

If i leave my car for 2 days the tappets make loud noise on start up until pressure builds up etc, so not sure what to expect after 3 weeks..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300012-leaving-car-for-3-weeks/
Share on other sites

Yeah mate. Should not be a problem. Mine sits for up to a month with starting and I don't have any problems. I also have a cteck charger connected to it so the battery is also good. The tappet noise you have, in my opinion is a problem with oil the type of oil you are use or they are on there way out.

For 3 weeks you should be fine. Just disconnect the battery and park it in a safe place. I've gone on holidays for 2 to 3 weeks at a time with other cars and they started and ran fine. One of my friends just recently started his worked 1990 turbo supra after 9 months of sitting in his garage. Put a new battery in and ran and drove beautifully and changed the fluids later that day. As for the tappets sorry I have no advise to help you with that.

Ye it should be fine just don't forget to d/c the battery as you said. I forgot to do this once when I went on like a two week holiday during winter time and then I came back and gone....battery dead haha (but I think it was a older battery aswell tho)

if your battery goes flat after not being driven for 3 weeks then the battery is shot to start with. my mum had an operation on her hand and didn't driver her car for 6 weeks and she just parked the car on the driveway and didn't do a thing and it was fine when she went to drive it the other day.

disconnecting the battery will reduce the chance of it being stolen, but if you have an alarm in the car it may stop the siren from going off.

If your battery is a bit suss, or the alarm/immobiliser system tends to drain the battery, then d/c it; keeping in mind that you'll need the code to your ICE to get it going again when you come home.

Before restarting, it's always a good policy to put just a bit of oil in, before turning the engine over. It can depend also, on the quality of oil you already have in the car.

Valve lifters are a 'different' issue however.

it's only 3 weeks. if it was 6 months then maybe, but not 3 weeks. but then if it was 6 months you wouldn't want to have a full tank of fuel as higher octane fuels go stale (loses its octane rating) quicker than lower octane fuels so you wouldn't want to drive it much (or very hard) if the car had been sitting for a long time and the fuel had gone stale.

I always disconnect the negative battery terminal as my car sits for months on end..

Just do this and u will have no probs with the battery

My car sat in my friends shed for 2 and a half years without being started, we put a new battery in it and it started straight away , Trusty nissan :)

After sitting for long periods sometimes ill drive it and it will splutter a bit and wont idle,occasionly it would even stall ,so i rev the crap out of it for a bit and its fixed :P I think its just some buildup on a sensor or something, but it always fixes itself once its driven and gets hot

If you are getting tappet noise maybe cause your oil is too thick on startup, but i wouldnt stress to much just dont drive it till it stops ticking. Let it warm up . Try a thinner oil

But yeah 2.5 years mate , so 3 weeks no problems, just disconnect the negative

haha no drama's. The tappet noise is only for a second, just signs the engine getting tired.

Ill be leaving the car at the end of my fuel cycle (ie. low/empty tank) should I top it back up to full and leave it? Will the fuel after 3 weeks be useless?

cheers

haha no drama's. The tappet noise is only for a second, just signs the engine getting tired.

Ill be leaving the car at the end of my fuel cycle (ie. low/empty tank) should I top it back up to full and leave it? Will the fuel after 3 weeks be useless?

cheers

Really doesnt matter mate, it will still be fuel when you get back..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...