Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25 and RB26 squish pad removal adds a LOT of extra volume to the combustion chamber, yet when I see this recommended or suggested I never see any mention of how the compression ratio is brought back up to a sensible level. Off the shelf pistons seem to be used and a 0.9 mm head gasket is as thin as any I have come upon. So what CR are people getting with a full squish pad removal, and how are they achieving a figure close to stock? I am not asking as to why the practice is recommended or discouraged on the vasis of combustion, I am purely interested in how a sensible CR is achieved once they are both gone :cheers: Thanks.

Yeah they get a compression of 9.0 (static) or thereabouts with their roller wave pistons... could a company like CP custom make pistons to suit a modified combustion chamber with squish pads removed?

someone want to go a little further into detail? could be a very usefull thread if how removing squish pads effects CR was added in somewhere.

IE the squish pad is X and removing makes the head sit closer/further to/from the block thus giving higher/lower CR.

as people like me would like to know more about the little terms they have heard without making new pointless threads.

Thanks!

seems to be only used on full tilt motors. ie massive boost and high rpm. ie said motors arnt required to have "as much" torque down low (ie big turbos) so the lower comp whatever it may be, is not at the front of the line in the engines purpose.

hope that sheds some light. ie: street. no pad removal,street/race, exhaust removed, full race, both removed.

would be a nice trick on a rb30 using 25 pistons and asociated block decking having a full tilt head still with 9 or so comp.

seems to be only used on full tilt motors. ie massive boost and high rpm. ie said motors arnt required to have "as much" torque down low (ie big turbos) so the lower comp whatever it may be, is not at the front of the line in the engines purpose.

hope that sheds some light. ie: street. no pad removal,street/race, exhaust removed, full race, both removed.

would be a nice trick on a rb30 using 25 pistons and asociated block decking having a full tilt head still with 9 or so comp.

exactly the same as my experience. the guys that do both sides and full tilt heads are not worried about the loss of static CR as they are making up for it with big timing numbers and LOTS of BOOST. so the short answer is they just live with the lower static CR as the other benefits they get is what they are after. and the rule of thumb is the same as what I've seen/used too. street = standard, street/race exhaust side gone. full race both sides gone.

apparently the endyne stuff is kick ass. I would like to try one of their heads and roller wave piston set-ups one day....

but when it come to engine combustion chamber/cam set up, its all abit of a black art in this country, only japan and usa seem to be openly sharing there r and d on the net..

Yeh I agree with you there. Sucks but I guess that is what they need to do to stay ahead of the game. Not like they can patent it haha

  • 3 weeks later...
but when it come to engine combustion chamber/cam set up, its all abit of a black art in this country, only japan and usa seem to be openly sharing there r and d on the net..

it's the same with everything. especially the USA. they love to share their developments etc on the net, and people can easily learn from it. here in aus people keep stuff much closer to their chest as they don't want competitors learning all their secrets. :(

it's the same with everything. especially the USA. they love to share their developments etc on the net, and people can easily learn from it. here in aus people keep stuff much closer to their chest as they don't want competitors learning all their secrets. :(

not me...i tell all...thats what this place is all about.

some food for thought...lowering the static comp allows more charge to enter the combustion chamber. The more charge the bigger the bang.

It works well in our own engines....remember a boosted engine the cylinder pressure is multiplyed than would otherwise be seen if it was atmo as the air is being rammed in and not pulled in under vacuum.

Edited by DiRTgarage
not me...i tell all...thats what this place is all about.

some food for thought...lowering the static comp allows more charge to enter the combustion chamber.

How does that work? I would have thought the effect of static CR would be negligible on cylinder filling as the piston wont be anywhere near TDC when the inlet valve is open - right?

There is no real doubt that street = stock, race = exhaust removed, full race = both

When in the US we did this to a few high HP mitsubishi's, but each time we used a custom piston design for open camber usage.

What effect do you think using the regular style RB piston which is clearly been design for quench pads has on maintaining the correct swirl and fire path?

Yes a correct setup will be a lot less likely to detonate due to the open chamber, but in the real world where the 2jz can make 1000hp+ on the stock quench padded head (near identical in design to the RB) is it somthing that is really worth while unless the vehicle is a fully dedicated race car that really is pushing the limit? I know I wouldnt bother

not me...i tell all...thats what this place is all about.

yeah agree on that point. and yeah there are still lots of good smart guys in aus who share stuff too. but just in general aus workshops play things much closer to the chest and don't want to give away hard earned knowledge/tricks etc. which is fair enough. it seems in the US their desire to show how smart they are overtakes the desire to keeps things secret! which is good. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...