Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm looking at some mild performance mods for my 'line. Not planning on taking onto the track for any major racing time, except for the occasional hoon along WSID once it opens :D

Anyway I'm trying to achieve around 200-200rwkW, and looking at intercooler upgrades to help that along the way..

Just wondering if it's really necessary to shell out on one of those 600x270x?.. front mounts, or will I be able to scrape by with a stock intercooler (maybe a r34 GT-T one if necessary)?

Other options I was looking at was a not-as-big FMIC, like an VR4 / Evo / Apexi (500x?x?) ones..

Any advice?

Cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30220-r33-gtst-intercooler-upgrade-qu/
Share on other sites

Its impossible to reach that power level on the stock turbo on a r33 most of them seem to max out around the 180-190kw (I have seen over 200rwkw but on a dyno that reads notoriously high) so you will need to upgrade the turbo and the intercooler. Do a search on here for turbo's and you'll pull up a heap of threads one guy in particular has made good power using a vg30 turbo and modifying it slightly and ended up costing less than $500 I think. If you want a complete turbo I'd get something along the lines of a garrett gt25/40 (around $1900-$2000) and that will get you just over 200kw, if you want 250kw get a gt30 as for the intercooler just find a good locally made unit, you can get a good japanese kit like a hks or a trust from a certain person in japan but you risk paying import duty and gst (a total of 25% more).

the standard intercooler can be improved upon. My reccomendation is the trust tube and fin bolt in replacement. Around $900 and will support 200rwkw.

There has been a few R33's to get 200rwkw on the factory turbo, some with the times to back it up too. For street use and the occasional drag strip visit a front mount can be put off till you do some better value for money mods. I know of one gtst in perth with both factory ic and turbo to pull 211rwkw on a dyno that reads fairly btw.

hehe woops..maybe somewhere in the 180-220 range..I know that's fairly broad, I guess I'll see how I go.. haven't really done anything yet, just pipe dreams at the moment..

My car managed 200rwkw on 15psi with a stock intercooler...but it had alot of help from a high-flowed t04 compressor housing with a stainless steel wheel. then it needed an S-AFC, boost controller, pod filter, and a turbo back exhaust. The turbine housing is still stock.

The whole Hi-flowed thing was done by the previous owner...but yea, if not for that then i would probably be fighting alot harder and sleeping less trying to get money for mods that stretch the stock turbo to its limits.

With a FMIC, I can achieve 200rwkw at 12psi. It helps cos it's safer, and a cos of a retuned S-AFC

My point is that it can be done on a stock cooler, but nobody would recommend it. Things will get too hot. They could only run my car up to 200rwkw once that day cos of the heat soaking into everything.

the standard intercooler can be improved upon. My reccomendation is the trust tube and fin bolt in replacement. Around $900 and will support 200rwkw.

There has been a few R33's to get 200rwkw on the factory turbo, some with the times to back it up too. For street use and the occasional drag strip visit a front mount can be put off till you do some better value for money mods. I know of one gtst in perth with both factory ic and turbo to pull 211rwkw on a dyno that reads fairly btw.

Hi rev210.

Where can you get these trust coolers from, this sounds quite interesting..

Make sure you choose a FMIC suited towards the power figures that you are after. No point getting a massssive FMIC if you only want 180-220rwkw (which IMO is possible with the standard Turbo).

I managed 200 rwkw on the stock turbo (but like everyone says, the dyno could be reading a little high). I also have a VR4 cooler with larger inlet / outlets on the end tanks (as the originals were only 2" I think). Other mods are pneumatic boost controller (as seen on autospeed.com), K&N hi-flow panel filter element, 3" turbo back exhaust, and SAFC with A/F ratio's at 12:1.

When I added the boost controller and ran car at higher boost I felt a small power difference

When I dropped a hi-flow filter element I felt the car was struggling less at hi rpm. (I had a pod filter on before that, which felt NO different to a hi-flow panel filter, so only get a pod if u like the noise it makes..... I hate it though, so I got rid of it)

When I put the cat back exhaust on I felt almost no difference

When I put dump/front pipe I felt a little difference

When I put intercooler on I felt NO difference

When SAFC was tuned, I felt a HUGE difference.

I'd say don't expect too much out of your mods until you sort your a/f ratios out though.... With all my mods (minus SAFC) I managed a top of 164rwkw. My A/F ratio's were all over the place, and car ran like CRAP after 5000rpm. tuning my A/F ratio's helped me get the most out of all my mods, so make sure that (or aftermarket tuneable ECU if u can afford it) is on your list....

Thought I'd post my experiences up since your goal is same/similar to what I set out to achieve. Hope you find the info useful!

Zahos

Guest RedLineGTR
the trust intercooler is availible from takakaira.co.jp / greenline and nengun.

The side mounting of the intercooler has the advantage of much better airflow than the front mounting except the space is a little restricted.

side mounting the intercooler would u mean like getting a original mount cooler simialr to the stock r33 gtst one but bigger and fatter and that flows better??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...