Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to loom, with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket behind the driver's side kick panel.

Have you filled up the reservoir and bled the system? (Bleed nipple at the back of the transfer case and another above the diff)

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

Here is what I do and have been doing for a while, 4wd light will flash to let you know when it's rwd. When you turn the car off make sure you don't drive it unplugged without pumping the brake pedal!

Skids!

Damn it the attachment did work!

Rh kick panel is a 1 wire connector disconnect it

Turn car on without moving

Pump brake pedal 5 times until the 4wd light starts flashing

You are now in rwd mode as per Nissan manual

Skids

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

To all those people rebuilding driveshafts.... Where do you get parts. I had mine out and sent away for 'rebuilding' and got back shafts with nice boots but plenty of knock. At the point now where im gonna drop the front shaft to stop the impending explosion

  • 3 weeks later...

Here is what I do and have been doing for a while, 4wd light will flash to let you know when it's rwd. When you turn the car off make sure you don't drive it unplugged without pumping the brake pedal!

Skids!

What happens if you forget to pump the brake pedal and drive with the wire unplugged? And what problems/damage is caused by running the car in 2wd in this way? I ask as I'm going to do it with mine when it's back on the road, although everyone I've ever discussed this with (including a discussion I'm having with someone at the moment (and who will probably read this shortly, lol)) swear it will break something. Any and all info you have would be great, cheers.

What happens if you forget to pump the brake pedal and drive with the wire unplugged? And what problems/damage is caused by running the car in 2wd in this way? I ask as I'm going to do it with mine when it's back on the road, although everyone I've ever discussed this with (including a discussion I'm having with someone at the moment (and who will probably read this shortly, lol)) swear it will break something. Any and all info you have would be great, cheers.

There is no problem with doing this but I wouldn't use it to achieve permanent 2wd because of the need to reset each time. The best way to get full time 2wd is to sell the car and buy a rwd car.
  • Like 1

There is no problem with doing this but I wouldn't use it to achieve permanent 2wd because of the need to reset each time. The best way to get full time 2wd is to sell the car and buy a rwd car.

Cheers for that KiwiRS4T. I only plan on doing it occasionally, when I feel the need for a bit of sideways action, so if I fit a switch inline with the wire I need to disconnect I'll be able to do it literally at the flick of a switch... and 5 pumps of the brake pedal of course.

I'm still being told by nearly everyone else I know with a Stagea that doing this will cook the transfer case clutch packs. They claim to know this "from experience", so that says to me they think anyone who states otherwise is wrong, yet not a single one of them have actually seen any problems or failures first hand or even know anyone who has had any problems either. I'm not doubting at all what you're telling me, but is there any truth at all in this? Just so I can clear this matter up once and for all. Cheers again.

It has been cleared up for several years.

This is fine to do providing you follow the procedure in the manual. Pump the brake pedal etc.

As to whether you are comfortable running it on a 2WD dyno with a mechanical linkage still in place is the only questionable thing about doing this.

  • Like 1

It has been cleared up for several years.

This is fine to do providing you follow the procedure in the manual. Pump the brake pedal etc.

As to whether you are comfortable running it on a 2WD dyno with a mechanical linkage still in place is the only questionable thing about doing this.

Thanks wolverine. Wish someone who knows what they're talking about would tell the guys on the "Nissan C34 Stagea owners group" on Facebook this as they think I'm mad for suggesting it, pmsl!!

  • 2 years later...

Here's my experience if it helps anyone out;

Did mine today and found the bolt head can't move as seen here:
post-142543-0-89837200-1457852240_thumb.jpg
and i couldn't get enough 'grab' using an open ended spanner without it rounding and couldn't fit a ring spanner on as above the nut it tapers in.

post-142543-0-41366800-1457852241_thumb.jpg

Ended up buying a 'flare spanner set' from supercheap and grinding it down to fit.

S2 C34 RS4
post-142543-0-92533400-1457852239_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...