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I always use 5, I have used 4 in the past but never really liked it. What are your thoughts on the 4?

I will have some more pics up in a couple of days of the welding I done on the weekend....more of the cast to raw aluminium and it turned out quite well and consistent which is most important.

I always use 5, I have used 4 in the past but never really liked it. What are your thoughts on the 4?

I will have some more pics up in a couple of days of the welding I done on the weekend....more of the cast to raw aluminium and it turned out quite well and consistent which is most important.

i really only use 5356 which i have had no problems with it, but i havent tried pipe/cast or sheet/cast with it.

ive used 4043 before but thats only good for cast repair,

i might grab 1kg of 4047 and compare it to the 5 series

Silly question, would you know if the RB20, RB20 or Rb26 fuel rails are interchangeable? I have an RB26 rail for my RB20 and after having a quick look at it i suspect its not going to work....despite my mates assurance he ran a scummy RB20 rail on his RB26.

One other thing, is there a reason why the runners are perpindicular to the plenum when you are going full custom?

For some reason I believe they do but not 100% sure since I usually make my own. I would just see if anyone else can confirm, I think the rb25's are not.

This has been proven over and over to produce the best results in terms of flow and consistency between runners with a correctly designed plenum.

looks great! just curious, how you manage to get the torch into tight spots like this? do you pull the tungsten out a fair bit, and wind up the gas flow to shield it more? or any secrets? :D

i'm also thinking for tighter spots too, like between runners in an ex manifold, etc..

I use a 20 size torch....being watercooled it is a lot smaller than the air cooler ones.

I have very rarely needed to extended the tungsten out of the cup or turn the gas flow up when welding aluminium....I usually just crank the amps up. I do though for stainless/mild steel and tight spots.

They are sandblasted prior to welding. If they are not blasted and you try to weld them, the impurities should only come from the cast and not from the oil on the inside of the runners. If that's what's happening you are using to much amps.

I used to weld them before blasting them but as you can see the result is just fine doing it before and this justifies not having to blast them afterwards as well.

You could ask what type of sand I use to blast them, but then I would be giving away all my little secrets :P

Ariel

hahaha fair enough :D

well its either soda or glass bead - as no garnet/crushed glass/oxide based blasting media will give that shine :)

you've given me enough hints so i should work the rest out myself :D cheers Ariel.

Chris

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