Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found a link to the Nismo pads at what looks like a reasonable price: http://www.nismoshop.com/servlet/the-767/NISMO-REAR-BRAKE-PADS/Detail

Fleabay only has fronts and they're dearer :(

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My fleabuy of Brembo calipers turned up from the US on the 5th. The rotors that were shipped are lost in transit. Lucky they are insured so I should get back the money. The calipers came with the lines and bolts too. Just need time to install all my goodies :wacko:

I found a link to the Nismo pads at what looks like a reasonable price: http://www.nismoshop.com/servlet/the-767/NISMO-REAR-BRAKE-PADS/Detail

Fleabay only has fronts and they're dearer :(

Nice find.

Funny how the US Nismo have items that the Japanese Nismo don't carry.

Got my RDA slotted rotors today.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Got my RDA slotted rotors today.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Depends really; nipple pink, or dog dick pink?

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Bout as cool as the beat up VL commo I saw yesterday dragging on the ground with VE commo wheels and "SEX SPEC Motor sports" sticker obscuring the whole back window...

:yucky:

Bout as cool as the beat up VL commo I saw yesterday dragging on the ground with VE commo wheels and "SEX SPEC Motor sports" sticker obscuring the whole back window...

:yucky:

You Sydney residents are a different breed...

I think I've decided on the Nismo S-Tune pads for now, and upgrade the rotors when they're knackered to slotted ones. I'll probably upgrade calipers at the next pad change. Sounds like that should be fine for my current driving.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

When the system works, it works well! ;)

thought ide move it here.

did a quick search on this thread but couldnt find it.

im sure someone could possible tell me what bolts I should be asking for - to bolt the GTR32 Calipers on?

grade ?

I think its a 12mm M12 thread>??

how long do I need?

thought ide move it here.

did a quick search on this thread but couldnt find it.

im sure someone could possible tell me what bolts I should be asking for - to bolt the GTR32 Calipers on?

grade ?

I think its a 12mm M12 thread>??

how long do I need?

As per my other reply, go buy them from Nissan, they are the correct material grade, and are shouldered to the right length. Most engineers will require it. Either that or drill & tap the caliper legs to M14x 1.25mm (I think) and use the factory Stagea bolts.

Aaron,

Make sure if you don't buy it from Nissan, you buy at least grade 8.8. Also make sure you get the right length.. The requirement is to see some thread coming through the other side and use Loctite (minimum 243)

Stainless bolts don't have the tensile strength, so don't use stainless anywhere near things that hold brake callipers onto struts/A-arms.

Remember, this is a safety system, so please be careful!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...