Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have anything useful to say about this relatively cheap HKS 2.8 kit that appeared late last year?

the one that can use stock conrods if you wish.

"step zero" I think it is called, and a stock redline of 8000

as far as I know the price is about 400,000 yen. Which is $5k. Plus $? for install.

Anyone know what the $? usually comes to..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305766-hks-28-step-zero/
Share on other sites

In addition to increased displacement effect of 2.8L, STEP ZERO is the best solution for engines that require better response.

The target maximum revolution is best for stock or GT-SS turbine with greatly improved response.

The affordable price allows usage just for engine overhauling.

It is optimized for target turbines and rpm.

Although it is full counter, the ultra lightweight design achieves quicker response than ordinary STEP1 or STEP2.

Full counter design decreases load on metals.

The pitch of both connecting rod ends is not changed as ordinary kits and stroke is adjusted by piston height.

This design is less side pressure, less friction and more durable than other manufacturers' 2.8L stroker kits that change the pitch between the both ends.

・Newly designed φ86.5 piston.

Piston bore can be selected depending on engine block condition between φ86.5 and φ87.0.

・Proven MADE IN JAPAN (HKS in-house production).

- http://www.hks-power.co.jp/db/product/file...4-AN009_012.pdf

Couldn't tell you an exact price but I assume it would be no more then the HKS Step 1 / Step 2 kit.

Tangomatt has a HKS 2.8lt kit in his R34 GTR, best ask him and he can let you know whats involved and pricing.

His HKS 2.8lt was put together / tuned by Ben from Racepace.

Well your RB26 will become a lot more responsive and the revs will just blast straight up, no sweat.

Will have plenty of pull too!

Pure 'sleeper' mod and will surprise a lot of ppl.

You thinking about doing a 2.8lt conversion?

What's your goal?

Its just basic kit that is purely for response while using GT-SS turbo's or alike. You'll get around the 400ps (dont know what that is in HP or Kw's) but I'll be at HKS on the weekend so can get more info.

I saw them a few months back and asked about them and they reckoned it was just upgrade kit for more performance, lighter crank and revs more quickly but 8000 rpm max. I'm pretty sure its not a forged crank, just lightweight counter.

They made them up here because everybody is broke and doesnt have the coin for the Step 1,2 and 3 kits !!

Its just basic kit that is purely for response while using GT-SS turbo's or alike. You'll get around the 400ps (dont know what that is in HP or Kw's) but I'll be at HKS on the weekend so can get more info.

I saw them a few months back and asked about them and they reckoned it was just upgrade kit for more performance, lighter crank and revs more quickly but 8000 rpm max. I'm pretty sure its not a forged crank, just lightweight counter.

They made them up here because everybody is broke and doesnt have the coin for the Step 1,2 and 3 kits !!

400 PS = 394.52 HP

400 PS = 294.20 kW

Sounds good your heading to HKS on the weekend.

Please do tell us how you go.

Its just basic kit that is purely for response while using GT-SS turbo's or alike. You'll get around the 400ps (dont know what that is in HP or Kw's) but I'll be at HKS on the weekend so can get more info.

I saw them a few months back and asked about them and they reckoned it was just upgrade kit for more performance, lighter crank and revs more quickly but 8000 rpm max. I'm pretty sure its not a forged crank, just lightweight counter.

They made them up here because everybody is broke and doesnt have the coin for the Step 1,2 and 3 kits !!

400ps is roughly 293kw... which I assume u mean at all 4 wheels?

I would have thought that is pretty conservative estimate with GT-SS turbo's and supporting mods..... let alone adding the 2.8 kit??

Dont quote me on that figure as gospel as when I was talking to my mate at HKS about the 2.8 build on my car at the time and was wondering why they were so cheap compared to the Step 2 kits.

There's a few configurations on the kit with the basic starting at 400,000yen.

Why only 400ps?

considering the standard GTR crank and rods can see almost 600ps then it must be the piston design holding this kit back? maybe they are light cast items similar to stock not forged

that or the crank is significantly lighter (and therefore weaker) than the standard crank?

Ok my mistake !!

Was just on the blower to my mate at HKS and Max power rating of kit is 600PS !!

sorry for the misinformation.

Crank is full Counter weight only.

Forged pistons and Rods.

Use of N1 Oil pump is fine as limited to 8000rpm but you cant be too carefull so upgrade of oil pump is up to customer.

Highly responsive motor with great torque !!

Ok my mistake !!

Was just on the blower to my mate at HKS and Max power rating of kit is 600PS !!

sorry for the misinformation.

Crank is full Counter weight only.

Forged pistons and Rods.

Use of N1 Oil pump is fine as limited to 8000rpm but you cant be too carefull so upgrade of oil pump is up to customer.

Highly responsive motor with great torque !!

600ps at engine or wheels??

Ok my mistake !!

Was just on the blower to my mate at HKS and Max power rating of kit is 600PS !!

sorry for the misinformation.

Crank is full Counter weight only.

Forged pistons and Rods.

Use of N1 Oil pump is fine as limited to 8000rpm but you cant be too carefull so upgrade of oil pump is up to customer.

Highly responsive motor with great torque !!

600 PS = 441.30 kW

That sounds more like it :P

Good to hear that elrodeo666.

I love a great responsive RB26 as the experience is pure awesome!

The Japanese rate it at the wheels but their dynos are notoriously number happy.

Regardless its pretty good bang for buck.

My 2.8 Step 2 build here was bloody expensive !!

So is it a lightened factory crank by the sound of it?

If so - that would be quite a nice saving.

I would say the RPM/power limit would be relating to things like rod bolt choice and so on, which are easily solved

  • 7 months later...

Just bumping an old thread instead of starting a new one.

Is anyone using the step zero kit?

It says that it will suit someone running GT-SS or stock turbos and only revving to 8000rpm. Is this HKS under rating their product or is it really that weak?

I would be interested to know if it would be capable of around 600hp with a T04Z and 8500rpm with ARP bolts all round and all the good necessary hardware.

Thanks

  • 6 months later...

I am looking at 2.8 options myself at the moment, and a tuner responsible for the engines in some of the fastest time attack cars in Japan tells me they are using the Step Zero in the majority of their cars, all of which are producing at least 650PS and have yet to find the limits of the kit - Interesting feedback

It appears the Pistons and Rods included in the Step Zero are the same as those included in the Step 1, leaving the main difference as the crank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...