Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to be honest I don't expect it to last for an incredibly long time. When the time comes, I'll repaint it to Midnight Purple like I was originally planning!
You must have a good Mrs to allow you to get away with that comment, after the amount of time and patience it has taken to complete it!! Especially when it looks soo damn good!

When the car is completely finished and before it hits the track; Invest some time to take a great photo of the car. Enlarge it and frame it with a few "progress pics", this will show her you really appreciate her work, effort and talent :P

Just something i would do if it was my car.

Well, she knows it can't last one way or the other. But once the car is ready to go, we are going to have a professional photoshoot done. One in a studio, and then again outdoors.

started on the roof today, and also the interior progress. Can anyone tell me ECU this is? it says Project Mu-COM Kids.. but I though they only made brakes.

DSC_0013-2.jpg

DSC_0020.jpg

DSC_0022-2.jpg

DSC_0024-2.jpg

DSC_0041-2.jpg

dayyyyyum, how massively over-engineered is that portico? i know you get snow and the occasional earthquake in japan, but those bolted splice connections look like they belong in an industrial plant.

nice work on the car too.

I know right. it's like they are too polite to sue each other over copyright infringements here.

Got the dash out, now I gotta get all the sound deadening out that is back there, but it looks like even more has to come out. And my house is turning into a car.

DSC_0001.jpg

DSC_0012-1.jpg

It might be true if she could drive worth a damn! Haha. I let her drive us down the street yesterday and I was like.... CLUTCH INNNNN!!!! BRAKE!!!!! OH SHITTTT, WATCH OUT FOR THAT POLE!!!!! I seriously couldn't breathe the entire time.

So today I bought a seat. well ordered it. It's a Prodrive Competition (Japanese Market only), gotta get a seat rail now. I've been told that most seat companies seats will work with the majority of low mount rails. Is that true? The seats mounting holes are the same as Sparco if that helps.

0912150002141s0.jpg

Also here's an update to the weight reduction tally......................

Removed rear seat and rear seat safety belts for 31 pound/14.1kg reduction. I removed a host of other items back in january.

Stock Trunk Carpeting - 11.5lbs/5.2kg

Stock Floor Mats - 13.0lbs/5.9kg!!

Stock Jack/Tire Iron - 4.5lbs/2.05kg

Stock Spare Tire - 34.4LBSSSS/15.6kg

Nissan Air Purifier,sound deadening behind back seat, car jack - 9 lbs/4.1kg

metal plate behind the back seat - 6.4 pounds/2.9kg

Stock suspension 57.8lbs/26.3kg and HKS Hipermax 47.0/32.3kg - 10.8lbs/6kg net loss

door panels 14lbs/6.35kg

carpet and various pieces of plastic 16.2/7.3kg

Center console 7.6lbs/3.5kg

passenger seat 34lbs/15.4kg (with rail attached)

=

192.4 pounds/87.5kgs

11 pounds is roughly equivalent to what 1 HP would give you in straight-line acceleration in a R33 GT-R so 192.4/11= 17.5HP. Doesn't seem like much, but once I change out the exhaust/cat, I will lose 15-20 pounds minimum, the new seat will weigh less than the stock one, and so forth.

That's all for now.

Today's happenings...

Went to my favorite place to pick up my seat. UPGARAGE!

DSC_9280.jpg

DSC_9282.jpg

New definition of JDM mad tyte. haha This seat is too small for a meth head to fit in!

DSC_9286.jpg

but I made it happen.

DSC_9285.jpg

also ordered seat rails!

just keeps it in line with my hand so i don't have to reach as far for shifts. combines with a short throw kit it won't be too bad, but eventually a sequential box is going in anyway, just don't know the time frame yet.

Well I went to pick up my part yesterday from my local Misawa heros 'Street Station' and they were closed! Japanese businesses pick some random days to be closed.. Anyway, got my test pipe and installed it. vroooom. I love that the box calls it "produce" like it's vegetables and fruits inside.

DSC_0006-1.jpg

DSC_0007-3.jpg

Japanese hand trap

DSC_0013-3.jpg

DSC_0015-1.jpg

In there. Now I need to install the rest of the exhaust system. The bolts on the cat all had to be ground off, they hadn't been touched in 15 years and there was no other way to get it out. I can't wait to see the condition of everything else.

Edited by istdercollen

^^ I love Japlish.

My Veilside Cat Back Exhaust says "Racing The Condition Of Your Heart"...

Tomei's Head Office in Japan says "We Will Make A Dream Of Motor Sports"...

I remember Seeing APex'i with "Find Your Driving Fun!!!"

:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...