Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i'm getting everything done , Forged Rods + Pistons and ACL bearings all round . N1 Oil pump + N1 water pump and full head work done .. so im expecting around 300rwkw+ with the turbo + Fuel setup that i have .. I give the car alot of hell , hence why my last motor blew up due to seized bearing or whatever made my rod fly out the side of block .. I just dont wanna have any oil issues with the car and was wondering is the Spool Hi Energy sump too much for what im doing and does it really help with the rb25 oil issues .. also i am fitting the tomei oil oriphis or watever they are called into the head

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5067241
Share on other sites

I agree. Drop the N1 pump too and buy a JUN or something better with the money you'll save, and run the 1.5mm restrictor/block off plug setup as per sydney kids recommendonations.

If your overly concerned about oil surge on the street because of how you give the car hell, then run the oil level a tad above the high line. Problem solved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069000
Share on other sites

if you're just doing street work there may be some baffle kit for the sump?

i have a sump baffle and an oil restrictor on my GTR when i had my engine rebuilt.

it works well for the street.

and if you're not tracking the car, then i doubt you'd really need to be sitting on the rev limiter when driving it on the street.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069028
Share on other sites

Waste of money.

N1 pump is fine.

Stock sump is also fine.

If you are worried, just overfill by 500ml for a RB25. As long as the head/restrictors are done correctly in a street car you don't need to go all stupid on parts.

Especailly not for 300rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069044
Share on other sites

Im buying billet gears for my stock oil pump...should solve durability issues as even the N1 pump still runs sintered steel for the gears, which is prone to cracking, the best part is the billet gears cost a lot less than the high end pumps but should be just as strong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069166
Share on other sites

if the motor is out then y not do it anyway???

what if in 6 months he suddenly decideds he wants to take it racing abit.

may aswell do it now n save on labour in the future.

I can play that game as well... What if he doesn't go circuit racing? Pointless mod.

Even with 300rwkw @ the circuit - Your "average" 350rwkw GTR with 4wd and semi's comp's doesnt use sump baffling...

Now given they will have more traction and g-force than a 300rwkw gts-t will ever have...

I cannot see a baffled sump being of much use.

More beers @ the pub for him basically, signifigantly more infact.

The fact he "gives his car hell" and threw a rod would be more about limiter abuse and poor maintenance... none of which a super sump is going to stop at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069182
Share on other sites

fit std pump and std water pump, more than adequate.

We used a std RB26 sump with removed diff and a tomei baffle only. With a greddy pump (60l per min) we had no issues for 3 years, we "upgraded" to a bigger baffled sump from a reputable engine builder and it cost us two engines (independently inspected).... swapped to an ASR and all the dramas are over.

point of story, you dont need one but if you do the only after market RWD sump we use now is the ASR (high energy) item.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069243
Share on other sites

Was it a properly built motor, with 300rwkw, as per the nature of this thread?

But then, all you NSW people seem to suffer from SBS.

Stock motor at 250RWKW...

And it spat it off throttle. When I picked the throttle up it was all over.

And that's because NSW has real race tracks... Or did... :D Oran Park ate mine going through the dip before the bridge...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306518-big-sump/#findComment-5069689
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...