Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You forgot to say where you are?

Bavariacars Motorsport specialises in putting propellers on BMWs + other mods

www.bavariacars.com.au

02.98797557

They're often stallholders at BMW Drivers' Club Events

Talk to the CEO Herbert Gattermeier

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085445
Share on other sites

You forgot to say where you are?

Bavariacars Motorsport specialises in putting propellers on BMWs + other mods

www.bavariacars.com.au

02.98797557

They're often stallholders at BMW Drivers' Club Events

Talk to the CEO Herbert Gattermeier

in sydney. I'll go onto their site. cheers

Edited by Amir
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085457
Share on other sites

Depends what you want done. Aftermarket or chipped standard ECU.

That does seem a little expensive but there is always going to be a premium for working on such a new, expensive car unfortunatly.

Anywhere should be able to do an exhaust, intake and intercooler setup for it but the ECU will be tricky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085471
Share on other sites

Depends what you want done. Aftermarket or chipped standard ECU.

That does seem a little expensive but there is always going to be a premium for working on such a new, expensive car unfortunatly.

Anywhere should be able to do an exhaust, intake and intercooler setup for it but the ECU will be tricky.

I would like to get the usual upgrades like fmi, intake, full exhaust, and tune. Not after a full aftermarket ecu, maybe a piggyback or remapped std ecu. This appears to get around an extra 70-80kw at the wheels, and approx. 110Nm torque which will be plenty for me. For these mods the qoute was just under 11K.

Most tuners are dabbling in different makes, so hopeing someone on here knows a non-euro bunch that can mod the 335.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085488
Share on other sites

what model 335?

i'm guessing you're talking post 07?

you could get the exhaust, FMIC piping etc fabricated and save a few dollars... the best bet is to go into your respective state's section on here, find out about tuners and just call them one by one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085560
Share on other sites

ive had a few through, i will chase up the graphs. From memory it cost them around $2000 for a "tune" and we did before and after and the only change was the boost :blink:

Be wary though as most shops here just load in a generic german map which is usually just a boost cut speed cut and boost increase (for $2k),

i had one M3 come in and lose 29rwkw, from 239 down to 210rwkw (and 30nm) with the so called leader in BMW performance's flash tune (see attached) :P

post-34927-1266032392_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1266032501_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1266033010_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085803
Share on other sites

Tony,

Is this what Ben's 335i have in when he took me for a spin?

Cheers

Grant

p.s. time for me to save up a lot to get one of these!

haha yep, thats the one. you can appreciate how impressed i was when i drove it. the power just kept pouring on like there was no end to it.

shame about the open wheeling diff though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085959
Share on other sites

http://www.burgertuning.com/

my mate installed their chip, filter, and boost lines, on his 335i twin turbo 08/09?

all up around 1k if i recall.

great results, no tune, no dyno, no mods.

yeah that is the boost chip. Pretty sure the last guy who came in upgraded the diff to a better ratio and lsd :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5085963
Share on other sites

haha yep, thats the one. you can appreciate how impressed i was when i drove it. the power just kept pouring on like there was no end to it.

shame about the open wheeling diff though.

Yes, I was simply blown away with how hard this thing goes, I told Ben that it's quicker than 270rwkw GTR I test drove, yes shame the diff is open, is it fitted with LSD now?

I'd be happy with the 335i and 100k in my pocket. Then spend 5k on the 335i and smoke the M3 :)

+1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5086343
Share on other sites

Yes, I was simply blown away with how hard this thing goes, I told Ben that it's quicker than 270rwkw GTR I test drove, yes shame the diff is open, is it fitted with LSD now?

no he didnt fit an lsd. apparently to replace the diff was some stupid amount of dollars. he sold it now anyway and bought a sedate 2L supercharged merc. really nice car. not a powerhouse, but good for cruising etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5086841
Share on other sites

Yeah the diff replacements can get quite costly. A few companies in the states make some good upgrades with the diff. I've been following the development of the 335i parts from the US forums for some time now. I definetely would like to get one in a few years time once im settled in career wise and the prices go down a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308029-your-tuner/#findComment-5086896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...