Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gtr got rear ended last night by some hyundai POS.

Just went to miscolor for a quote, 3g in damage to the rear.

Why can't people watch where they are F@&king driving.

could be worse. Mazda did same to me n he quoted me 6800... Which is why my insurance told me to go to a cheaper place heh

Technically you only need hub rings to install wheels. The process used to be that you put a hub ring on, tighten the wheel, then remove the hub ring. This ensured that the wheel was perfectly centered once the lugs are tightened. If your wheel is moving around after the lugs are tightened then you should be more concerned about the play in the wheel, the lug or the bolt.

Your wheels are either hub centric (centered using the hub) or lug centric (centred using the lug). most jap wheels should be lug centric with a wider hub hole to allow for varying axles.

So you'd kinda sound like a tard if you went to a tyre shop and told em that you want them to leave the centering tool in it after they're done. "Oh yeah, leave the cast on my broken arm on after it's healed, it adds strength to my arm".

Hub adapters on the other hand need to be hubcentric, as they aren't as lug centric as wheels are.

Lug centric wheel + lug centric hub adapter = fail

Lug centric wheel + hub centric hub adapter = win

Lug centric wheel + hub + no hub ring = win

Hub centric wheel + hub + no hub ring = fail

Hub centric wheel + hub + hub ring = win

kapish?

i was under the impression that hubcentric rings transfer load from the wheel to the hub directly instead of the lugs taking the force and doing stuff they arent supposed to do

like what? hold your wheel? that's what they do. that's all they do.

if your wheels are tightened properly and centred properly while being tightened you shouldn't need hub rings. unles syou have a hubcentric wheel. which I doubt, cos this isn't the 80's.

you need a hub ring, unless skylines are different

i had a wabbly as f**k wheel one day after i got some tires, and the installers left the hub ring out, once they put one back in the wheel was fine

this was on a honda civic

you need a hub ring, unless skylines are different

i had a wabbly as f**k wheel one day after i got some tires, and the installers left the hub ring out, once they put one back in the wheel was fine

this was on a honda civic

that wheel was probably not lug centric?

you guys realise that the need for hub rings is totally dependent on the design of the wheel, therefore whatever experience you've had with your wheel may not apply to his wheels right?

here...

lug typical of a lug centric install:

conenut.gif

lug typical of a hub centric install:

shank.gif

the former transfers tension onto the wheel AND the stud, whereas the latter puts tension onto the stud ONLY. In some cases running a hub ring on a lug centric wheel can actually be dangerous as you'd be counteracting the tension on the wheel by the lug needed to centre the wheel, and instead putting stress on a part of the wheel NOT designed to take tension, i.e. the centre.

2005-01-08_021.JPG

left: lug centric.

right: OEM hub centric

It's not a matter of "to be safe", ask yourself if you're putting tension on the part of the wheel that was designed to take tension. I'm sure you'd love your wheel to start fracturing from the centre where it may be weaker.

Ok, that seems reasonable - but most hubs would be appear to be hub centric, having a built in hub ring - which would imply the studs aren't necessarily designed to take the full weight in shear, otherwsie why have the hub ring on the hubs at all?

Ok, that seems reasonable - but most hubs would be appear to be hub centric, having a built in hub ring - which would imply the studs aren't necessarily designed to take the full weight in shear, otherwsie why have the hub ring on the hubs at all?

To centre it properly while being installed. IF your wheel needs a hubring, it will come with them. All aftermarket manufacturers supply locating rings for their wheels if they are needed. Lugs by themselves cannot centre a wheel properly, which is when you need a locating ring to centre it. Some wheels are designed to have this ring left after installation, others are designed to be removed.

Technically you only need hub rings to install wheels. The process used to be that you put a hub ring on, tighten the wheel, then remove the hub ring. This ensured that the wheel was perfectly centered once the lugs are tightened. If your wheel is moving around after the lugs are tightened then you should be more concerned about the play in the wheel, the lug or the bolt.

Your wheels are either hub centric (centered using the hub) or lug centric (centred using the lug). most jap wheels should be lug centric with a wider hub hole to allow for varying axles.

So you'd kinda sound like a tard if you went to a tyre shop and told em that you want them to leave the centering tool in it after they're done. "Oh yeah, leave the cast on my broken arm on after it's healed, it adds strength to my arm".

Hub adapters on the other hand need to be hubcentric, as they aren't as lug centric as wheels are.

Lug centric wheel + lug centric hub adapter = fail

Lug centric wheel + hub centric hub adapter = win

Lug centric wheel + hub + no hub ring = win

Hub centric wheel + hub + no hub ring = fail

Hub centric wheel + hub + hub ring = win :P:):D:banana:

kapish?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...