Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Newfagz don't know bout demon camber

In other news my wheels are getting made this week and will be here by end of Jan

So true!

What wheels you getting again?

Car was at Centerline today, drives nice and straight now :P

Funny thing is im running -4.5 degrees camber front and -2.5 rears. Fronts would be upper arms and lowness combined haha

Pics yeah :blink:

What kind of camber settings would be best for a street car that enjoys a few twisties every now and again?

-1.5 degrees all around?

I don't know much about that kinda stuff so i'm off to do some more research.

Lol demon camber looks like ass. Looks like the car is cocking it's wheel to take a piss like a dog

this... is true

What wheels you getting again?

matte black XD9 17x9.5+17 f and 18x10+18 r w 235/45/17 AD08's f and 235/40/18 KU36 rear

cusco upper arms will probably mean 20mm spacer up front so et will be 17x9.5-3

More tyre on the road the better. Eg billys 4.5 deg camber on front would make te car understeer like a bitch when pushed on corners

err... the point of cambering the fronts is to GET tyre on the road while turning, and hence stop understeer

see pic attached:

race cars run camber for a reason

RGII_CWestLabs_S2K.jpg

when you turn your wheels they dont turn evenly as such, they tend to roll over and reduce the contact path, by adding camber, this roll over effect is negated and contact is again made with the road. see above how on the c-west s2k the wheel is turned and the tyre is nearly flat.

4.5 deg camber will be much much better in the twisies/track than stock setup, but will wear the tyres down unevenly for DD purposes

i'm gonna be aiming for -3 deg when i get the new rims

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...