Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RA to the muddaf*kkin D

how the f**k is it legal tho?

i'm guessing EPA compliant "stock" engine still won't = engineerable in a 240z chassis

gimme ride when it gets here kthnx

yeah i have.. but it's just like every other white r33 out there (like yours haha)... it's quick but i want it to look better.

thinking stealth wing and coilovers should keep me happy for a while

carbon. nuff sed

paint it orange

nearly lost my shit at that one

car bra any good for temp use on the car when driving on the freeway.....thinking of getting one made up (going to b for dirt cheap thnx to mates contacts)...just want to avoid shit hitting the intercooler and bending the vents...getting a mesh on the intercooler was an option but not much room between the front bar and the intercooler...:(

any advice for me? :D

talk to shanusr33. the full show spec white r33. he's got a custom one he uses on all the cruises. they are surprisingly exxy unless u got hookups. also be warnded: they will rape your paint if the underside surfaces aren't absolutely clean. basically a dirty car/carbra becomes sandpaper powered by the wind. also if the clasps come off, scratchy scratchy.

she'll be right though

chipping in the extra on top of insurance cover to get new wheels.

Ordering them officially tomorrow hopefully, subject to availability

yay new wheels!

... Who wants 3 advans?

Im past epping, just out of wallan.... so like 30mins from northern burbs

Incredible, I saw you today in your yellow evo pulling out of the united servo in Wallan. Would have been around 3:30-4:00? Couldn't believe it lol.

I really like the look of advan tri spokes, even though nobody else really does lol. In fact, i'm going to be spraying the ones I have in my garage this weekend.

In other news, looks like my diff has turned into a single spinner.

There's a white 33 GTR on here that has em, with nice dish and in black...that's the only time I've rated em

Yeah, unfortunately mine are in a really weak offset. But I'm going overseas soon so i'm not gonna bother buying more wheels.

Spray black maybe?

21962_352520245916_731930916_4783193_6330932_n.jpg

There's only two ways to make trispoke advans look good... hide the spokes by painting it black and pulling focus to the lip:

240SX-Advan.jpg

or let your nuts hang out in people's faces and show em you don't care that they're hating on trispokes by painting em a bright fluoro colour:

AdvanEndless.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...