Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cant get it engineered due to displacement

yeah it can, just costs more to engineer. if it's under a certain amount then you don't need to engineer, just get a roadworthy.

yeah it can, just costs more to engineer. if it's under a certain amount then you don't need to engineer, just get a roadworthy.

i thought a 2.5 - 5.7 would be classified as too much

lulz, page 404 of thread

how is it that I've owned two 32 GTR's and neither (including one that was makin 380awkw on a big single) never had as many issues as you're making out to have? are you just being a princess and havin a whinge or you havin legit problems? If you are then STFU, sell it and buy something that's not gonna give you issues. I hear Corollas are teh reliable.

also, angry birds on PC and on Mac App store. FFFUUUU... there is no escape!

:rofl:

I have both legit problems and me being a f**king girl.

I have access to a Corolla with new motor cos my dad is lazy f**ker for not maintaining it properly and destroyed old motor (it is 2004 model BTW).

Fucking girl :rofl:

^^ srz? i got a green one :(

me...why?

lol...rust or not...they still sell at the same price these dayz...lol...

tough, whos doing it for you these days?

nothing like the old shit like lloyd and j holiday

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...