Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok 5558 on built sr20 is now run in. Boost was uncontrollable due to a mixture of incorrect wastegate spring and a loose block off bung in the side of wastegate.

Went for a quick roadtest to check boost pressure with 8psi spring and its running 14psi. With a 4th gear foot flat 2500rpm pull was cracking gate at 3500-3700 (14psi)

Will tune as soon as i get some time

Ordering from the US is always better for service IMHO.

I used Real Street Performance on a few occasions and delivery was about a week on all orders. There was one odd time when they couldn't ship an item because it was missing a piece from the MFG (the value of non drop ship vendors). That was rectified fairly quickly by the vendor, the supplier was a little slow though and I ended up taking a payout instead. Item arrived at my door, missing the said gasket, within days of telling them to send as is.

They also sell PT's and pricing is as competitive as it gets.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics would be handy :)

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics of super snail!!!!

Sort your line out?

just waiting on a 12mm metric to -3 adaptor and i will have the oil lines sorted. The pressure pipework is going to be the next interesting part. The thing looks small compared to the 78-33d. It only just fits between the cam covers and the strut tower lol

Hey you guys with precision v-bands, re- the 3" outlet to dump pipe, -the v-band flange welded to the turbo doesnt have a seat for the female flange and the Performance Exhaust at Northmead guy told me I need to get a female flange milled to suit with the clamp and my turbine flange because most of the time the clamps are too wide and the dump has play in the joint . He said it will fit first time but not after if I just get an off the shelf vband flange kit. Is that correct and what you guys doing about that? Where and what size T3 spacers you using, theres some 11mm ones on ebay, mine is a 5558 to go on stock rb25 mani- low mount.

Last question- oil feed and return, any suggestions on fitting sizes and line lengths? Or just let the tuner (unigroup/jem etc) sort that out..

And how much u guys paying for fabrication work, and any recommendations? Pm me if you dont wana post on here, thanks :)

Edited by rondofj

I can preeeety safely say, if its unigroup, let them sort the oil line for you. The 6466 i have was supplied with a machined V-Band flange, looks the goods and mates up 100% primo. I suggest talking to the unigroup guys and leaving it in thier capable hands mate :)

Thanks man, ur lucky you got a flange n clamp supplied as the precision ones are different in size to regular vband flanges and dont seal properly according to the exhaust guy and on the web, can anyone else with this 5558 or other 0.63 vband turbo please tell me where they got their dump flange n clamp from?? And any pics of how the gates welded to the turbine? Thinking if i should point the gate sideways towards the firewall or up upwards like a hat. Turbo will be Low mount on stock rb25 mani

Edited by rondofj

Don't be stupid Paul, there are no compressor maps so they are rubbish.

Lol, not what I said... they are your words. But continue to misquote me to the benefit of being an internet hero.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...