Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that's not why I questioned it lol, look at the power he made. 295kw. Given that he also said water injection = free 30kw, a 3071R would make 265rwkw on 18psi without hassle. Not 28psi lol.

But the water does have a negative effect before it has a positive one, unless you are tuning really aggressively with full time WI.

If you were to be injecting JUST water and not be touching the tune, just be upping the boost... You would need to crank in a fair bit of boost.

Seems OK to me.

I running an FJ20det which I swapped from my old DR30 skyline into my 1600. The previous turbo setup used a Fantasy split pulse single waste gate manifold and a twin scroll GT3071r and made 265rwkw on 22psi.

Perhaps that is why?

No typo. My engine was build with quite low compression, 7.9:1 I think. Because of its low volumectric efficiency, it needs more boost to make the power. Plus running standard cams as well don't help the cause.

That said, the power being made with the 30171r is still quite respectable. I have witnessed an sr20 running a 3076 @ 22 psi making 260rwkw. This was on the Unigroup engineering dyno which is where I get my car tuned.

Water injection will have a negative affect on your engine performance if it isn't metered, atomised and tuned correctly. Get it right, which isn't hard, and there are significant power gains to be had.

Mitcho_7, you are correct that the old manifold could have been hampering the power. On closer inspection it had a very poor collector design, runners which differed significantly in length and a single waste gate configuration. The replacement manifold which I designed and built has a far superior collector, runners which are almost equal in length and twin waste gates. It has also been power ported with each runner flowing between 204 and 210 CFM.

After testing of the 3071r and 5558 are done, I will be upgrading to a 6262 twin scroll. I have already purchased this turbo and have begun building the manifold to suit. With a few supporting mods such a 2000cc ID injectors, cams and a RB25det gear box, I'm hoping to crack the 400rwkw barrier.

Here are a few pics of my 6262 vs my mates 5558:

image_zps40a575df.jpg

image_zpsb47c04cf.jpg

image_zps323e3c05.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Still going strong. We retuned Kurtis's

The other day to see if we could push any harder and got to 372kw 24psi dropping to 21psi. And wound low boost up to 17psi making 330kw instead of 14psi low.

His is driven alot, mine sits around doing nothing. Drove it to the hardtuned.net meet friday night and cleared the cobwebs. Was running 25psi in the cold weather. Both engines are still looking very healthy.

I have considered putting Cams in my GTR to push the envelope a little further

Still going strong. We retuned Kurtis's

The other day to see if we could push any harder and got to 372kw 24psi dropping to 21psi. And wound low boost up to 17psi making 330kw instead of 14psi low.

His is driven alot, mine sits around doing nothing. Drove it to the hardtuned.net meet friday night and cleared the cobwebs. Was running 25psi in the cold weather. Both engines are still looking very healthy.

I have considered putting Cams in my GTR to push the envelope a little further

Daaaamn 372rwkw @24psi - too much power man haha, I think I would be happy with 330rwkw.. Kurtis has the same neo engine/5558 turbo as me, but also got high mount mani, E85 and forward facing plenum correct? He makes 330rwkw @17psi on E85, I make 286rwkw @18psi on 98. A 15% power increase by going E85 (286 to 330) sounds about right hey??

Plazmaman plenum is 20kw, e85 say 30kw.

Its been a while since ive driven Micko's so cant give a good comparison. Also havent driven Kurtis's car since fixing the leaking bov. But was fun when i did

Daaaamn 372rwkw @24psi - too much power man haha, I think I would be happy with 330rwkw.. Kurtis has the same neo engine/5558 turbo as me, but also got high mount mani, E85 and forward facing plenum correct? He makes 330rwkw @17psi on E85, I make 286rwkw @18psi on 98. A 15% power increase by going E85 (286 to 330) sounds about right hey??

I thought I read in the rb25 dyno thread that you only had the .63 rear? Maybe I read it wrong though.

When are you seeing full boost and when is kurtis on full song?

Good to hear they are both holding up pretty well though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...