Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-49273-0-53484800-1436053985_thumb.jpg

3.4 stroker I believe, but that won't affect peak power much

It was only a ~6500 rpm run apparently as the dyno wouldn't run past 230kmh for some reason.

Unsure of rear housing, but assume it's a bigger one....

3.5" exhaust, with gate plumbed in, so, far more potential to be had yet.

Also, I ran my car and it was fairly consistent with how it was tuned on another dyno.

  • Like 1

That's impressive, not just peak power but down low as well.

I wanted to know the capacity as I'm planning to run 30psi (2.7) and hoping to get 850hp from the 6870

But it seems likely I won't get there.

Why only 30psi? What fuel? If e85 why are you limiting yourself?

Yes it will be on e85, I'm after a safety factor as this is a brand new engine and its street driving.

I know I can make 1000hp but where do u draw the line?

I'm drawing the line at a safe 30psi Street driven all day long, then pushing it to its limits just for a numbers game!

At power cruise events it will be pushed upto 950hp with gas. Also my engine hasn't been sleeved and has stock girdles, so that's mostly why I'm holding back.

Edited by QUP29

Yes it will be on e85, I'm after a safety factor as this is a brand new engine and its street driving.

I know I can make 1000hp but where do u draw the line?

I'm drawing the line at a safe 30psi Street driven all day long, then pushing it to its limits just for a numbers game!

At power cruise events it will be pushed upto 950hp with gas. Also my engine hasn't been sleeved and has stock girdles, so that's mostly why I'm holding back.

Thats a 20odd psi safety margin.

1000hp on stock girdle and no sleeves isn't an issue.

Especially as its only going to be pushed sometimes.

Me and my tuner know it can make whatever we want it to make, the motor is good for 1200hp but I'm not about pushing it to its limits.

His seen N1 blocks crack at 600-700hp.

It's a street car, and I want it to last as long as I can as this engine isn't just a normal off the shelf stroker kit!

Edited by QUP29

Me and my tuner know it can make whatever we want it to make, the motor is good for 1200hp but I'm not about pushing it to its limits.

His seen N1 blocks crack at 600-700hp.

It's a street car, and I want it to last as long as I can as this engine isn't just a normal off the shelf stroker kit!

I've seen brand new cars off the showroom floor break as well.

Got a thread on what makes the 2.7 different from a readily available off the shelf 2.7?

I've seen brand new cars off the showroom floor break as well.

Got a thread on what makes the 2.7 different from a readily available off the shelf 2.7?

no I don't have a thread if that's what your asking? I have different components from just your normal off the shelf nitto 2.7 kit.

But enough about me this is a precision turbo thread, sorry for getting off the topic.

no I don't have a thread if that's what your asking? I have different components from just your normal off the shelf nitto 2.7 kit.

But enough about me this is a precision turbo thread, sorry for getting off the topic.

Back on Topic, a 6466 would/should/will go very close to your 850hp number on 30psi.

A high comp 2.6 down here makes 608kw on 26-28psi he runs 35 on the track.

Yeah i have mentioned a have a sweet spot for the 6466, we originally had the 7175 but I chose to change to 6870 for a better spool.

6466 won't give me 950hp maybe on kill mode!

6870 gives me more room if I do change my mind and want to push the envelope

Thanks for the info

Edited by QUP29

Yeah i have mentioned a have a sweet spot for the 6466, we originally had the 7175 but I chose to change to 6870 for a better spool.

6466 won't give me 950hp maybe on kill mode!

6870 gives me more room if I do change my mind and want to push the envelope

Thanks for the info

Will be interesting to see what it puts out at 30psi. Take into account that graph has a very restrictive exhaust setup so probably not much above 30-32psi with something free flowing? I'm only guessing

Started working on the car again.

Ended up going a 6466 with T4 divided 0.84 rear on a Rex Kelway twin scroll manifold, twin tial 38mm gates with Plazmaman plenum & throttle body. Will be on a SR22VET circuit car. Hopefully will be ready in a few months time so will see how it goes.

20150620_161213_zps7lwedxk0.jpg

20150704_151218_zpsnuua1axk.jpg

Me and my tuner know it can make whatever we want it to make, the motor is good for 1200hp but I'm not about pushing it to its limits.

His seen N1 blocks crack at 600-700hp.

It's a street car, and I want it to last as long as I can as this engine isn't just a normal off the shelf stroker kit!

This is one of the big questions I was looking for initially as well. I have a new N1 block on stock bores and a BC stroker (makes it 2.75L)...I decided NOT to grout my block because I too am limiting myself with turbo size (BW 8374 EFR)...where should I stop? I was assuming I could max this turbo out on my setup if I wanted to and the block would be fine. Again street car with some lapping days in it's future so I was erring on the low end / reliable side of things.

I made just shy of 500kw at 6300 rim with a 6466 while still tuning top end. That block died a painful death, along with my wallet. The 6466 at 35+ pound should see 600+ on a well built stroker with a good head. I love good head.

I made just shy of 500kw at 6300 rim with a 6466 while still tuning top end. That block died a painful death, along with my wallet. The 6466 at 35+ pound should see 600+ on a well built stroker with a good head. I love good head.

The 6466 see's over 600kw under 30psi on 2.6 and strokers.

A stroker means less rpm more than anything

As for blocks need grout etc. Many cars over 1000hp don't and haven't

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...