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Yep Dot3 is the standard and anything above is just a higher boiling point.

Just a heads up for guys with ABS equipped R33/R34's. I just posted this up in the DIY thread regarding a small problem.

So I took the car for a spin and the brake pedal feel is soft as hell lol. As in there is about half of the pedal travel doing nothing.

I bled the system again and there is no air in the brake lines themselves, however my car has ABS and on the R33s (unlike the R32s) there are no bleed screws on the ABS module. My understanding with this is a special ABS scan tool is required to properly bleed the ABS so I will go see some one this week to try and get the ABS bled properly.

This is a very common problem with R33/R34's that have ABS and there appears to be hundreds of threads on very soft brake pedals. So I'm assuming it's because people get air into the ABS unit and then never bleed it properly.

Will report back on this to see how it goes after the ABS bleed.

Edited by PM-R33

Dammit, that probably rules out installing them myself lol... Where can you take it to get the ABS bled properly, any mechanic? Or gotta be a brake specialist?

You can still install everything yourself, the car still brakes fine. Also every car may be different and maybe you won't get as much air into the ABS.

I did a bit of quick reading on the net and a lot of modern ABS equipped cars need an ABS scan tool used to cycle the ABS solenoids to bleed the air or some shit. R32's have bleed nipples on the ABS which makes it easy, ours don't unfortunately and judging by the amount of threads on "spongy brake pedal" i'm assuming a lot of people don't get the ABS bled.

I'm going to call a couple of places during the week, every dealership (Nissan) or brake specialist should be able to bleed the ABS so i'll see how I go.

Qoute I found:

You need the drb (or suitable off brand scan tool) to bleed your abs for a reason. The scan tool cycles the solenoids and pump during the bleed process that forces air out of the hydraulic assembly, solenoids and actuators. Not to mention it will also release the pressure in the system to begin with.

You cannot bleed your brakes without a scan tool. peroid.

Take it to the dealer, and pay them to do it right. Should only cost you 1 hour labor, as that is what I charged customers when I worked at the Chrysler dealer. Today's abs systems have a lot going on, and should not be messed with by anyone not qualified to do so.

Edited by PM-R33

Hmm ok so I saw one place and they were like yep air in the ABS can be the cause and should be bled and then another place said there is no way air could be trapped in the ABS to cause a soft pedal so I dunno :)

I might just crack the ABS lines open and try and bleed it manually to see if any air comes out. I don't get why Skyline brakes are so soft. I nearly go through the windscreen every time I brake in the girlfriends Mazda 3 due to the brake pedal being so responsive to the slightest touch.

lol i didnt know you could get air in the ABS unit, ive bled my brakes like 4 times, changed BM as well and still have a soft pedal feel.

perhaps try looking up the FSM and see what it says?

got mine today thanks phil...

No worries man, glad it rocked up to you. Wasn't sure how long it would take to PNG.

lol i didnt know you could get air in the ABS unit, ive bled my brakes like 4 times, changed BM as well and still have a soft pedal feel.

perhaps try looking up the FSM and see what it says?

I got them back to normal, bled the lines coming in and out of the ABS unit and bled the lines coming out of the master cylinder. There must have a been some air trapped somewhere. All good now :whistling:

I felt a mates brakes tonight (non ABS GTST) and his pedal is a lot softer than mine.

I did notice one thing when I pulled my master cylinder off to inspect it, is the pushrod that comes out of the brake booster into the master cylinder adjustable? It has a thread on it and kind of looks like you can shorten/lengthen it. If you could lengthen it maybe you could get rid of that initial softness of the brake pedal. Any one got any input into that? I just really would love to get the brake pedal to feel still like other modern cars I have felt.

The initial softness must come from the pushrod in the brake booster having a large gap infront of it prior to making a force on the master cylinder no?

EDIT:BINGO! Found what I was talking about. Read this, could this be the way to overcome the soft Skyline pedal?

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylin...adjustment.html

I discovered that one turn of the pushrod was worth approximately 6mm at the pedal. I ended up turning the rod clockwise 1.5 turns, which removed about 8mm of free play at the pedal.
Edited by PM-R33

Ok guys well it appears this Group Buy has been successfully completed, thank you all for sticking with me through it.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me and if any issues occur in the future just contact Hel and qoute them your unique warranty ID#.

Thanks again :woot:

Phil

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