Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think it is frightening how many people don't have insurance with Skylines.

I can understand that the prices are enormous for the younger of us, but insurance is one of the costs that you must consider BEFORE buying a turbo import.

Sorry.

El Bee

if you don't have at least 3rd party, a person is an idiot.. and yeah, you shouldn't be driving a skyline at all if you can't afford at least that!

3rd party at least, even if you write off the car (difficult to do), you should at least be able to get $10k for the sum of all the parts. Seems to happen a bit on here, people selling off the remains of accident cars.

I have always had at least 3rd party property on my cars, even the Gemini, but have gone full comp with the skyline. When your are over 25 rating 1 the premium is pretty good, definately worth the piece of mind. I have had a few mates get hit from behind, while stationary at a give way sign for example, and people give them dodgey info or refuse to pay as they don't have insurance. There is not a lot you can do, with full comp, its not your problem, its the insurance companies. That by itself makes it worth it, even though I am yet to have an accident.

Third party property is a must. I drove for a year without it and looking back I cant believe I was so stupid.

With my car it was $350+ for property. Comprehensive was $1,700 odd on a $5,000 car and so I didn't bother. My situation is a little different from most tho as I have a highly modified classic car.

think about it ... u driving around a car that costs 13k to 17k ... insurance costing u 2k and the the excess is 2.5k ... i mean come on ... 4.5k if u have an accident ... drive around 2 years ... 7k you've paid if you had an accident ... half the value of the car ... no point ... just get 3rd party ...

oh ... and make sure u are careful when u drive ... don't do stupid things like drag racing off the lights, well no to ridiculous speeds :D like 80+ in a 60 zone.. in fact dont' even do that :D ... never tailgate even if you're in a rush ... and be patient ... if you're a good driver then you're always aware on the road ... but yeah i must agree if someone hits you its a pain in the ass to get your money ...

3rd party property is a must. Even a shitter can go up the back of a merc/porsche/whatever and leave you up the creek. Comprehensive - depends on:

1) car's value

2) premium

3) how often your car gets damaged

Basically you work out the odds of having a claim in how many years vs what you're paying each year. Eg if my car's worth < $10k and they want $3k a year for comp, what are the odds the car will be stolen or written off in 3 years?

At the end of the day, insurance companies are a business, not a charity. They are there to make a profit selling you peace of mind. On average you will always end up paying insurance companies more money, or they wouldn't be in business. Insurance is for when you can't afford to pay for the loss yourself.

Some of those premiums arent too bad, NSW would seem to be the most expensive state for insurance... im paying $2800 for my R32 GTSt, full no claim bonus, live in a good suburb, never been booked, garaged and 27 years of age... but my mods are covered.

I wish i lived in another state for insurance purposes ;)

I think it's silly not to at least have third party. I just can't help but think I'm gonna run up the ass of a SL500 one day, so I'd be silly not to have it.

Fortunately I've been driving for about 4 years, and my insurance is pretty good, I've been running quotes through Justcars and got $1499 on a '96 GTS-T at $20,000 with $2000 aftermarket wheels (that's rating 2- 50% NCB). I thought I'd be paying like 3K for it, can't wait to get my car :)

I got quoted $451 for tpp with just cars, haven't paid up yet, seems a bit expensive.

I've got tpp withaon for my hilux, and it is way more modified than my line, and it only costs me $240, I'm hunting up a cheaper tpp provider for my line [aon won't touch it unfortunately]. But I reckon tpp for a skyline shouldn't be more than $350-400, anything else is just a shareholder profit dividend stock market rip-off.

I have been driving for 15 years and had comp insurance for all but the first 2 years (3rd party). I have NEVER made a claim on car insurance, but I would recommend that it is worth the piece of mind cuz I know as soon as I do nto have it, I will need it.

I just paid $10,000 for 10 cars in my company fleet....that hurts.

P.S NRMA fleet will insure a 96 GTR with agreed value of $50k for $2200...... seems good to me...might get one now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...