Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Get Old Fuel Out Of Car

Wacky Dee

By Wacky Dee,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

I bought one of those syphoning hoses with the jiggly ball at the end that u stick in the tank through the filler and jiggle (rather than suck on the hose) but it stops about half a metre in, i'm guessing there's some sort of protection mesh in there to stop junk from falling in to the fuel tank by accident. So the hose is out..

I've read that the fuel pump can do the job by simply unhooking one of the fuel lines and turning the key to the ON position and let the fuel pump spit it all out. But where do I unhook the fuel line ?

It's an R34 GTT .. I can see the fuel line on the left hand side coming into the fuel filter .. do I disconnect it before the fuel filter or after and if so where ? Cheers

Oh yeah ..car's been sitting in the garage for 6 months with half a tank of ultimate ..something stinks really putrid, I hope its just the fuel and not some small animal that made a home in there somewhere, lived a happy life and then DIED.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316680-how-to-get-old-fuel-out-of-car/
Share on other sites
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok i've unplugged the fuel line on the fuel rail (just after the filter) and when switching the key to ON I can hear the fuel pump priming and it squirts about 50ml of fuel then stops

At that rate I will have to switch on/off about 500 times which i'm sure would kill my fuel pump and battery and take ages .. Is there any way to get the fuel pump to keep sending fuel without stopping ???

I'm about to take the fuel filter off and see if it keeps flowing without the fuel filter on the line but somehow I doubt it ANYONE ?!?

EJD001 Mentor

EJD001

Posted
Posted

Not 100% on this...is the fuel pump actually located in the tank in the 34 or remote..

Maybe access the fuel pump, from the boot area (under the step in the boot luggage area ) and u might be able to use the pump that u got that way...

just throwing it out there.. may or maynot work?!!?!?!

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Correcto!

Just short the pump. Don't let it run dry for too long though, because they tend to depend on fuel for lubication of the pump :D

How do you short the fuel pump though ? I've already searched for "short the fuel pump skyline" and whatnot earlier today on teh google but came up with nothing useful

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hm come to think of it I do have that nissan consult cable and some software somewhere ..wonder if any of those programs can be used to make the fuel pump run at full speed to empty the tank

edit: yep looks like NIssan Datascan which I bought last year has a 'fuel pump' active test so that should do the trick ..will report tommorow

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

those jiggle syphon hoses are a bit of a pain. a much better setup to use is a boat fuel line setup. they have the bulb in the middle of them that you squeeze to such the fuel though.

also while you can use the fuel pump, it may take a while to do so. depending on how much of a hurry you are in it may be quicker to remove the panel in the boot where you access the fuel pump through and just syphon it out through there. it is a bit more fiddly to do but you will be able to syphon the fuel out quicker. but thinking about it, the extra prep time probably outweighs the gains from faster syphoning.

Jolinator Proficient

Jolinator

Posted
Posted

i usually just pull the cas out of the car and rotate it by hand, this will keep the pump on, dont fun it flat out without giving it a break. you will then have to retime the engine or use the marks that you should have written on it, however they are not always 100%accurate

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

What are you going to do with the fuel once you get it out of the fuel tank?

Frankly I wouldn't be worrying about it. The fuel will still run the engine. Once you get the car out of the garage, the smell should dissipate (if it is just the fuel).

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

^^^ yep or just get some more Ultimate in a can and pour it into the tank if you're concerned about starting it and then driving it to the servo to dilute the sulphur smell/effects.

Sulphur can vary in its %age by up to 100%

http://www.kittiwake.com/4_7_sulphur.com and yes, I'm aware that %ages can vary quite a bit from country to country as well as between brands - or even batches within brands.

Edit: lets's try that again... http://www.kittiwake.com/4_7_sulphur.htm

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

datascan couldnt do it ..same issue as switching ignition to ON ie. only pumps a small amount then stops.

I used Yavuz's (unigroup) suggestion which was to have the fuel return hose disconnected and run into a container .. start the car and run it until its out of fuel. Took about 10 mins with half a tank. Easy as :D I'm hoping the fuel filter picked up any nasty crap before it could clog my injectors.

Anyway, fresh BPU in there and the car drove without any issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...