Check Your Nuts

[djr81]

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it ) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

I have some of these & would recommend them above any alloy nuts.

It is pretty simple - you don't want them failing. You don't want to have to worry about them failing. YOu don;t want to have to continually replace them.

On that basis they are actually pretty cheap. Light too for that matter.

[Marlin]

Just called RI they seem to be $390/set. ouch.

You need a number plate like mine

[LSX-438]

that's me. i just cant bring myself to pay $400 for wheel nuts. i understand the economy argument, but yes i'm a tyt arse!

[djr81]

that's me. i just cant bring myself to pay $400 for wheel nuts. i understand the economy argument, but yes i'm a tyt arse!

If you check the obvious import sites you should be able to get them for less than $250.

Also Nismo make steel wheel nuts in various lengths. they don;t appear to have the little collar on them like the project mu ones, however.

[2lazy]

Mine never failed but damaged the thread both on the nut and the stud, it got so bad that I had to replace my studs

Edited April 22, 2010 by 2lazy

[LSX-438]

If you check the obvious import sites you should be able to get them for less than $250.

Also Nismo make steel wheel nuts in various lengths. they don;t appear to have the little collar on them like the project mu ones, however.

can't seem to find any project mu stuff less than the $390 price, any suggestions?

[LSX-438]

Mine never failed but damaged the thread both on the nut and the stud, it got so bad that I had to replace my studs

same here. studs damaged due to the soft alloy thread coming apart and mashing the stud thread. pita. got to watch them closely and clean as you go all the time. a damaged stud can ruin your whole championship (i carry a bunch of spares now..!)

[siksII]

Thought i saw them on ebay but can only find the lock nuts now

[LSX-438]

Thought i saw them on ebay but can only find the lock nuts now

thanks for that but nothey are not the correct ones.

these are the ones

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

[siksII]

thanks for that but nothey are not the correct ones.

these are the ones

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

Yeah sorry I realised after i posted them, I thought I had seen them on there before for around the same price.

[LSX-438]

Yeah sorry I realised after i posted them, I thought I had seen them on there before for around the same price.

no worries. i think i found some decent ones (aussie made i think) through meridian motorsport, $150/set. apparently quite good i will report on them soon.

[Duncan]

bit late....but anyway, I gave up on ally wheel nuts after stripping one. Don't need that sort of issue.

The ones I have run for years are steel from my mates at autobarn. take a nice thin 17mm socket and fit in most wheels. they have a flange so they don't slide into the deep sockets. look like this....thanks ascii art.

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I don't have an issue with using a rattle gun to spin the nut if you have long studs, but always stop early and finish them by hand with a torque wrench (unless the rattle gun has actually been calibrated to the right torque, 110nm for standard studs). I have seen studs stretch and break from not torquing right, it is just crazy not to take the time to do this stuff right on a track car. I use a makita electric impact wrench then finish off with a warren and brown torque wrench, does not take too long.

[LSX-438]

I was just told something very interesting relating to annodised alloy parts. I was explaining the problem (stripping a lot of these wheel nuts) and his first question was "what colour are they"........ They have all been red, and he went on to say that annodising them RED has a weakening affect on them. Something to do with the process of annodising them RED whereas other colours didnt have the same problem! (to the same degree) he had some hardness numbers to back up what he was saying. So that's interesting, anyone ever heard this?

[SRS13]

My red ones are also stuffed!!! I don't remember what brand they were but I bought them for $120 a set so definitely not the top shelf ones. Also bought some black ones from ebay, metal nuts that you tighten with the allen key. The centre of the nut rounded making some of them useless. I think its best to spend more front up and don't have to worry about it...

[Beer Baron]

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it ) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

marlin is on the money with the project mu nuts. they are teh shit. the rays daytona ones i sold to ant are just as good too and are my favourite nuts. not nearly as hairy as marlin's are and screw heaps better too.

you may find the rays ones a bit cheaper than the pmu ones. I certainly don't think I sold ant his for anything like $400....

for those on a budget I use the plain, open ended but high quality (brand name) steel nuts. they are very strong and quite cheap around $30 per set of 4. will last forever if treated right. the high quality alloy nuts are better than the cheap ones. some even use an heli-coil like insert for the thread but none are as good as the top quality steel ones like the pmu or the rays daytona.

these are the budget option:

Work also make nuts that look identical to the rays ones pictured above and again reasonable in price.

[Beer Baron]

these are the work ones. steel, open ended, another good budget option at around $100 a full set of 20...

[LSX-438]

these are the work ones. steel, open ended, another good budget option at around $100 a full set of 20...

these look good thanks for posting. can i buy them anywhere around sydney?

[Beer Baron]

not sure. I've only ever bought them direct from work japan. with the rate how it is currently they are about $125 + post from japan. still not bad. they are nice nuts.

[Duncan]

yeah thats the style I brought (unbranded) from autobarn for about $20 a set. Been running them for years.

[LSX-438]

Finally discovered these (for those that want alloy):

They are about $100/set of 20, apparently locally manufactured using 7075 alloy.

ZERO issues with these, they have been faultless.

FWIW I tried those cheapie D1 nuts you see everywhere and they were no good after ONE wheel change, they stretched even at 108Nm. Junk.