Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it :happy:) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

I have some of these & would recommend them above any alloy nuts.

It is pretty simple - you don't want them failing. You don't want to have to worry about them failing. YOu don;t want to have to continually replace them.

On that basis they are actually pretty cheap. Light too for that matter.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

that's me. i just cant bring myself to pay $400 for wheel nuts. i understand the economy argument, but yes i'm a tyt arse!

If you check the obvious import sites you should be able to get them for less than $250.

Also Nismo make steel wheel nuts in various lengths. they don;t appear to have the little collar on them like the project mu ones, however.

If you check the obvious import sites you should be able to get them for less than $250.

Also Nismo make steel wheel nuts in various lengths. they don;t appear to have the little collar on them like the project mu ones, however.

can't seem to find any project mu stuff less than the $390 price, any suggestions?

Mine never failed but damaged the thread both on the nut and the stud, it got so bad that I had to replace my studs

same here. studs damaged due to the soft alloy thread coming apart and mashing the stud thread. pita. got to watch them closely and clean as you go all the time. a damaged stud can ruin your whole championship (i carry a bunch of spares now..!)

thanks for that but nothey are not the correct ones.

these are the ones

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

Yeah sorry I realised after i posted them, I thought I had seen them on there before for around the same price.

Yeah sorry I realised after i posted them, I thought I had seen them on there before for around the same price.

no worries. i think i found some decent ones (aussie made i think) through meridian motorsport, $150/set. apparently quite good i will report on them soon.

bit late....but anyway, I gave up on ally wheel nuts after stripping one. Don't need that sort of issue.

The ones I have run for years are steel from my mates at autobarn. take a nice thin 17mm socket and fit in most wheels. they have a flange so they don't slide into the deep sockets. look like this....thanks ascii art.

. __

.|...|

.|...|

.|...|

\___/

I don't have an issue with using a rattle gun to spin the nut if you have long studs, but always stop early and finish them by hand with a torque wrench (unless the rattle gun has actually been calibrated to the right torque, 110nm for standard studs). I have seen studs stretch and break from not torquing right, it is just crazy not to take the time to do this stuff right on a track car. I use a makita electric impact wrench then finish off with a warren and brown torque wrench, does not take too long.

  • 3 weeks later...

I was just told something very interesting relating to annodised alloy parts. I was explaining the problem (stripping a lot of these wheel nuts) and his first question was "what colour are they"........ They have all been red, and he went on to say that annodising them RED has a weakening affect on them. Something to do with the process of annodising them RED whereas other colours didnt have the same problem! (to the same degree) he had some hardness numbers to back up what he was saying. So that's interesting, anyone ever heard this?

My red ones are also stuffed!!! I don't remember what brand they were but I bought them for $120 a set so definitely not the top shelf ones. Also bought some black ones from ebay, metal nuts that you tighten with the allen key. The centre of the nut rounded making some of them useless. I think its best to spend more front up and don't have to worry about it...

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it :D) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

marlin is on the money with the project mu nuts. they are teh shit. the rays daytona ones i sold to ant are just as good too and are my favourite nuts. not nearly as hairy as marlin's are and screw heaps better too.

rock09.jpg

you may find the rays ones a bit cheaper than the pmu ones. I certainly don't think I sold ant his for anything like $400....

for those on a budget I use the plain, open ended but high quality (brand name) steel nuts. they are very strong and quite cheap around $30 per set of 4. will last forever if treated right. the high quality alloy nuts are better than the cheap ones. some even use an heli-coil like insert for the thread but none are as good as the top quality steel ones like the pmu or the rays daytona.

these are the budget option:

139.jpg

Work also make nuts that look identical to the rays ones pictured above and again reasonable in price.

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally discovered these (for those that want alloy):

DSCF0007.jpg

They are about $100/set of 20, apparently locally manufactured using 7075 alloy.

ZERO issues with these, they have been faultless.

FWIW I tried those cheapie D1 nuts you see everywhere and they were no good after ONE wheel change, they stretched even at 108Nm. Junk.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...