Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah wont be dealing with him again but will be taking the bill to fix the engine to him.

The engine was built by Pro Engines and seems to be the goods but would have been nice to get it to the track. I have recently picked up the car and all parts after being pulled down and assessed for damages. So now i have to choose if I fix it as a 3lt of wait for the spool 3.4 kit.

And once the engine is all fixed up do I put it back in the 33 and run the 10 I was always after or put it in a 260rs stagea....

As for driving it, it has done less than 50ks on the street with a run in tune and was great to steer. So take off in 1st get it on boost, pull 2nd = wheelspin, pull top and more wheelspin. lol

That was with about 300rwkw running 10psi and 6000rpm

A stag that can run 10's would be a pretty nice thing to daily drive!

How do you find driving it on the street with the auto?

I love the auto. Best thing I ever did to the car.

Would be nice to change the diff gears from 4.1 to 3.7 to drop the revs on the highway.

I went to the drags here last weekend and was inspired to fix it for the 33 just to blow away the dirty V8s. lol

what do you guys think about a gt3582 with .63 rear on a rb25-30? will it choke it up or anything? its a standard bottomend rebuild and rebuilt standard head. just deciding on the turbo to use now coz i dont wanna make too much power (dont wanna go over 450rwhp on standard motor) and cant decide what turbo coz i want it in its good efficieny range but dont wanna make like 500rwhp on 18psi or anything like that. had a t04z .84 t3 off proboost but sold it before i used it and got the motor done. thinking of going another one of them but i dunno.

i will get one off the proboost guy probably coz there good prices and are meant to be real good. i dont think he can sell me a 3582 in anything except .63 rear.

Use the .82 housing mate. the 30 bottom end brings it on boost almost instantly. I reckon you would regret the smaller rear housing.

or even a 3076 with a .82 rear.

friends supra is running that setup and it drives like a stock turbo except that it makes 300kw

does anyone know whether I can use rb20 engine mount brackets on an rb30 into an r32 gtst? I haven't put it in the car to test it, but it looks like the engine will sit on a huge lean?

I've tried searching but can't find any solid info, the pdf doesn't specify which brackets to use.

the gt3582 the guy sells is only available in .63. its not garrett but meant to be good. will it be ok or should i get something else?

might get another t04z with .84 t3 flange. any ideas on what power it would do on my rb25-30 with na pistons and standard head? on about 18 psi id probably run otherwise it wouldnt be in its efficiencey range possibly i dunno about them that much. just worried about making too much power for the motor and on the other end of the scale dont want it to not be working in its proper range. will crank it up later once i get another motor or some more money so i can replace it if it blows the motor.

im going to get the t04z with 0.84 t3 rear on it. want to get 400-450rwhp for now. how many psi should i run do yous think. i wanna get the spring in my wastegate for what boost i wanna run. dont really wanna go over 450rwhp coz i spent abit rebuilding the bottomend. has mahle cast pistons and king bearings. 40 thou over i believe.

will live with the extra lag for now and crank it up more when i get another motor ready or get more money and see what this one will do. only wanna buy 1 turbo so will go the big one straight away.

the guy says his 0.63 gt3582 will do 400-430rwhp on 18psi. still would like some info from you guys on how that will go on the rb25-30 in regards to the rear choking up the motor and stuff like that. just went back into my mind about going that one maybe. need info and examples of how itl be off ya to help me decide.

How long is a piece of string. Your tuner will tell you what boost you will need to achieve the power figure you are looking for mate.

I am using the 35r with the .82 housing and have 470 rwhp at only 18 lb. Response is off the hook.

THis combo still has my vote for the best response/power package.

How long is a piece of string. Your tuner will tell you what boost you will need to achieve the power figure you are looking for mate.

I am using the 35r with the .82 housing and have 470 rwhp at only 18 lb. Response is off the hook.

THis combo still has my vote for the best response/power package.

i would be going the .82 gt35 if the guy could do one but says he cant. so its either .63 gt35 or t04z with t3.

whats done to your one to have that much power?

might just go 17 or 18 psi spring and it makes what it makes. havent picked my tuner yet. will be seeing one guy during the week

i would be going the .82 gt35 if the guy could do one but says he cant. so its either .63 gt35 or t04z with t3.

whats done to your one to have that much power?

might just go 17 or 18 psi spring and it makes what it makes. havent picked my tuner yet. will be seeing one guy during the week

I dont follow, gt35r is an off the shelf item with whatever housing you want Joe. Anyone can get one.

As for mods, its built with all the usual add ons. Head is quite mild. Building another full house head for it atm so we can really lean on it.

I dont follow, gt35r is an off the shelf item with whatever housing you want Joe. Anyone can get one.

As for mods, its built with all the usual add ons. Head is quite mild. Building another full house head for it atm so we can really lean on it.

im buying off the proboost guy. he sells his turbos to a rotary shop and has had his turbos on a few good cars running good times.

the gt3582 he sells he can only get the .63 rear housing. its like this one but there now got surge porting. http://www.proboost.com.au/level2.asp?view...lanttype=Turbos this is what the ones he has now looks like if the ebay link still shows the listing anymore http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-SKYLINE-turb...=item19bb2c660d

i already have the manifold and wastegate i got off him last year and never used and sold the t04z t3 i got off him at the same time. so im just about to finish the motor and buy turbo again.

dunno if il go the gt3582 kit as listed or get the to4z for $785+$90 for water coolded core. thinking i could go the gt3582 kit for $850 then sell the spare wastegate and manifold to make it cheaper. can also get the 3582 with t66 wheel, used to be able to anyway.

so id like some info on how itd go with the .63 gt3582. might go that for ultimate response and over 400rwhp but dunno much about turbos to know if it will be a restriction and end up not being that good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...