Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know where to buy a minispool for a R32 GTST?

what specs do I need to look out for and will the same mini spool fit any other cars? ie.. do I look for a R31 mini spool or something.

Cheers

Dan

Sell you a new diff cheap :thumbsup:

I thought the 32 had a borg warner :S

Was just thinking that if I weld it, if the welding breaks I will be stuck on the side of the road.

So should I just shim it up? I just want it to be predictable.. at the moment it reverts from twins to singles and it snaps back and piss's me off. Also picks up a tyre through a corner and spins it and Cant get the power to the ground evenly.

Edited by BANGN
I thought the 32 had a borg warner :S

Was just thinking that if I weld it, if the welding breaks I will be stuck on the side of the road.

So should I just shim it up? I just want it to be predictable.. at the moment it reverts from twins to singles and it snaps back and piss's me off. Also picks up a tyre through a corner and spins it and Cant get the power to the ground evenly.

and if you put anything in that has the same effect as a minispool has a chance of breaking axels so either way... your stuck on the side of the road...

and if you put anything in that has the same effect as a minispool has a chance of breaking axels so either way... your stuck on the side of the road...

Spool on weld can break axles , welds can break resulting in pinion ,crownwheel damage or launch shit out off housing :(

Can only shim clutch type diffs, most basic Nissan use Viscous diffs.

Aslyls S14 Racecar has been on a welded GTR diff without problems. GTR is easy as you can weld the clutch plates so if the weld fails it just goes back to normal GTR LSD, If you weld other types you need to weld the spider gears and when they break shit goes everywhere.

There is a tutorial in the DIY area of the forums with a guy shimming an R33 diff.

Fairly sure R32 would be similar, he's posted step by step photos and price lists for the shims as well.

I think 3.2mm (two 1.6mm shims together) is tight enough to chirp tyres while parrallel parking etc.

It will wear out eventually but should last for a good while.

I'm sure someone of your mechanical aptitude (aren't you a tradie?) could do it at work for the price of the shims/diff oil/gaskets etc :yes:

Don't weld it up/put a minispool in. I found with my old locker in early RX7, rainy days actually required me to get sideways to go around certain corners. It's easy too do because it's so predictable but would hate to have a cop around when you have to do it.

Edited by dave_rb20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...