Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum need a few suggestions real quick. I have a synchronic bov on my rb25det plumbed in right before the throttle and recirculated back to the intake before the turbo.

My problem is on throttle release after boosting or on a quick acceleration I get flutter and thought by plumbing the bov back into the intake, I would have gotten rid of it. I find this rather strange cause the way the bov works is that it is always open at idle, once vacuum is applied to the bov it opens and when positive pressure is applied it closes and as soon as vacuum is applied again it opens, hence on throttle releases or at idle. You can look it up online to get a better understanding of it.

I wanted to know if the size of the hose used to recirculate the air matters or would affect the discharge? I had to fit a smaller hose in diameter into the recirculating fitting of the bov and the flange that was welded to the intake in order to plumb the discharge back into the intake. So now the passage for the discharged air has been reduced significantly. Would this cause the turbo to flutter or it doesnt matter the diameter of the hole the discharged air has to go through, only that is has a way back to the intake?

Any advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/
Share on other sites

this is not a stock bov is it?

have you tried the stock bov on there? the return pipe size should not effect initial release unless its TINY.

try a stock bov, maybe a better vacum source for the bov itself (a fat one off the plenum)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5218256
Share on other sites

I find this rather strange cause the way the bov works is that it is always open at idle, vice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Only factory ones do this.

Most aftermarket ones have spring rates to high for such to occur.

Just put a factory BOV or GTR one on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5218420
Share on other sites

run the bov as loose as possible, as is sounds like its not opening fast enough.

Post a pic as the size of the discharge pipe could be the culprit.

+1

It's either set too hard or not enough air is getting through.

Also, what makes you think this aftermarket bov is open at idle?? if it's designed to be atmo. venting then I doubt that is the case as it would be a HUGE vaccum leak.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5218429
Share on other sites

i doubt this is the case but, if you bought the car like this check if there is a block-off plate between the BOV and intake pipe?

as i said, you wouldn't think there is as why would someone go to the expense of fitting an aftermarket bov only to block it off.

Just a suggestion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5218460
Share on other sites

this is not a stock bov is it?

have you tried the stock bov on there? the return pipe size should not effect initial release unless its TINY.

try a stock bov, maybe a better vacum source for the bov itself (a fat one off the plenum)

Yea to me it looks pretty tiny from the initial size of the recirc fitting, but I will get a pic up and let you guys decide.
run the bov as loose as possible, as is sounds like its not opening fast enough.

Post a pic as the size of the discharge pipe could be the culprit.

Will try to get a pic up for tomorrow but as a guess the diameter of the recirculatig fitting is about 1.25 inches the hose I had to use the diameter the outlet dropped to is probably .5 inch.
+1

It's either set too hard or not enough air is getting through.

Also, what makes you think this aftermarket bov is open at idle?? if it's designed to be atmo. venting then I doubt that is the case as it would be a HUGE vaccum leak.

Yes it is a huge vacuum leak that is why I have it recirculating, It is a synapse synchronic bov and they are designed to be opened at vacuum. Will try to set the spring a bit softer.
i doubt this is the case but, if you bought the car like this check if there is a block-off plate between the BOV and intake pipe?

as i said, you wouldn't think there is as why would someone go to the expense of fitting an aftermarket bov only to block it off.

Just a suggestion.

Didn't buy it like this upgraded to this.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5218682
Share on other sites

thats too small to get the pressure out quickly.

What size do you think will be adequate? I really don't have many options, I think I can find a hose that is a little bigger, but if it will result in the same it is just a waste of money. The size of the next hose might be closer to an inch like 6 or 7/8. Can't find any hoses over here to fit over that size fitting and be able to maneuver. The hose that does fit is extremely hard finding a route for it how big it is and hard to bend, plus it is like 10 to 12 dollars a foot and I will need about ten feet to run it properly.

What is the minimum size internal diameter hose you would suggest to use?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5219248
Share on other sites

are you using the bov with the actual recirculation snout on it? (look like the pic below). if you are then you should have the hose on the outside of the snout (almost sounds like you are running it on the inside by the way you are talking, because the synchronic bov's recirculating snout is about an inch in diameter - should easily be able to fit your thumb into it), and then you should be able to run the stock hose. or you may be running the bov with the anti-stall atmo fitting on it which only has a skinny snout. if so then you need to put the proper recirculation snout back on it

synapse-synchronic-bov-2.jpg

found another pic with the anti-stall atmo snout in the plastic bag at the bottom right of the pic. this will also result in flutter since the hole through the centre is tiny.

P1010024.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5219965
Share on other sites

Only factory ones do this.

Most aftermarket ones have spring rates to high for such to occur.

Just put a factory BOV or GTR one on.

Not true Nismoid, I run 18 PSI through a TRUST RS and there's virtually no flutter at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5220044
Share on other sites

Not true Nismoid, I run 18 PSI through a TRUST RS and there's virtually no flutter at all.

Ash was stating only the factory ones tend to be open at idle, which is true. the trust ones are shut @ idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5220080
Share on other sites

Didn't buy it like this upgraded to this.

What was wrong with the stock one?

I understand if you want to hear the bov sound then sure, but if you dont want to hear it and you want it to recirculate, whats the point??

Edited by Harey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5220107
Share on other sites

are you using the bov with the actual recirculation snout on it? (look like the pic below). if you are then you should have the hose on the outside of the snout (almost sounds like you are running it on the inside by the way you are talking, because the synchronic bov's recirculating snout is about an inch in diameter - should easily be able to fit your thumb into it), and then you should be able to run the stock hose. or you may be running the bov with the anti-stall atmo fitting on it which only has a skinny snout. if so then you need to put the proper recirculation snout back on it

found another pic with the anti-stall atmo snout in the plastic bag at the bottom right of the pic. this will also result in flutter since the hole through the centre is tiny.

Yea I am using the recirc fitting, just that were I am located I can not find a hose that is big enough to fit on the outside of the recirc fitting and if it is big enough it is so hard to work with and expensive that it doesn't make sense to use. So I had to find the biggest inside diameter hose that would fit inside the recirc fitting and 5/8 was the size I could find.
oh and why would you need 10 foot of piping? where do you have the bov fitted, in the boot? LOL
Lol nah but my bov is on the driver side of the engine bay underneath the headlight, while of course you should know where the intake pipe is located, so instead of running an ugly black hose across the top of my engine I ran it underneath and around the engine. The piping is about 8 feet the way it had to be run.
What was wrong with the stock one?

I understand if you want to hear the bov sound then sure, but if you dont want to hear it and you want it to recirculate, whats the point??

I was upgrading everything and didn't want to take a chance of the stock one leaking, plus I didn't mind the bov sound but it had a major leak coming on to boost and even some at idle with the antistall kit installed.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319535-turbo-flutter/#findComment-5220873
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...