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Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Thanks for this info Chris.......hey you got photo's.....of the installed piece.....and sneak in a couple of the outside of the car as well! :)

Thats really awesome. I'm guessing you should probably put a trans cooler in at the same time though.

Not sure there is any point fitting the trans cooler for the paddle shift as the transmission stops the transfluid going through the cooler when in manual mode... :ermm:

Umm... Ok...

Excuse my mechanical naivity... But isnt that when temps are likely to be at their highest, and the gearbox under the most stress?

yup.......but.....when you get the trans hot it shifts harder due to the pressure being up higher......I think it's Nissans cheap way of getting a more sporty feel in the shifts!pinch.gif

ive got a torque converter lock up switch..

it keeps the torque converter unlocked when in manual

things you notice:

about 30kw on the dyno

acceleration is much better

holds gear(obviously)

but does drink the fuel

more importantly why i did it was because it keeps the auto trans cooler flowing

so now i can lock the torque converter and cool it from the "extra stress" i give it. lol

Scott did it for me.. i think me and him are the only people that have done it so far...

best thing ive done

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

I thought Cam proved the cooler was working with the converter locked...

There isnt as much need for it to cool as the demand is lower, the converter sucks over 30kw which is converted into heat. I can only imagine the temps mine gets up to when tuning, more than enough to boil the coolant in the radiator. Generally its locked on the dyno but the lockup clutch wont hold much more than 300kw even when built. (mine is a dominator torque converter)

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

That would be wicked if you could. :thumbsup:

Keen to set this all up.

That would be awesome Scott.

Maybe a stupid question, but what's the difference having it unlocked for everyday driving? Can you still stall it for a launch etc? I guess a switch would be ideal.

Cheers!

Chris.

For you, it would slightly increase response and take a little from the top of your power curve. It would also be around 5% less efficient. A switch to turn it off is easy, you just drop the wire through a resistor to ground.

What I have is slightly different as I cant use the lockup clutch anymore in its stock form. When you shift into manual, the converter tries to lock under full load, mine cant due to the huge difference in shaft speeds. I have disconnected the solenoid but I fitted a switch to slam 12v straight onto it, for dyno tuning mainly, as its very hard to tune the low end otherwise. With the switch on it will hold a bit over 300kw before slipping back onto the converter so I have no idea what will happen with the new turbo. Obviously we will have to tune low boost first then add fuel with the map sensor.

If you like driving in D it wont help you much, if anything it will only suck more fuel as it always wants to be in 5th.

(Who am I kidding, what low end. lol.)

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